Hair By Antonio

NEW BLOG NAME

2009-10-22T20:53:00.000-07:00

You are being redirected to my new blog. Please update your bookmarks

MY CLIENT SARAH FOSTER THE MUSICIAN

2009-10-21T06:32:00.000-07:00

HAIR BY ANTONIO

http://www.sarahelizabethfoster.com/videos/

MY CLIENTS BUSINESS

2009-10-19T17:51:00.000-07:00

HAIR ley-Davidson…hardly!

ANTONIO…

I wanted to inform you of my client’s bike rental and storage business. Chris Miles is not only a great friend of mine, but also an incredible mentor. I visited Jupiter’s NYC Motorcycle Rentals website and simply had to share this information with you – because I knew you bikers would appreciate it.

“This isn't just a motorcycle business to me; it’s my attempt to help bring about the change in ourselves we all seek – that feeling of one with the world. Traveling helps me do that – motorcycling brings me closer to the heart of nature both within myself and I find with others.”

Jupiter’s NYC Motorcycle Rental

119 8^th Street

Suite 100

Brooklyn, New York 11215

718 788 2585

Google Map

FOR THE WOMAN IN HER 50's

2009-10-16T16:32:00.001-07:00

Recently, a new client and I were discussing her hair and the options available to her for a new style. She was unsure about what she wanted, but did not hesitate to tell me what her friends thought. One comment in particular that I found noteworthy was that as a mature woman her hair should be shorter. Instantly, I knew I had to write about this. I’ve heard it so many times and frankly, I think it is incorrect.

Does that mean that once you pass the age of 50 you should cut your hair short?

Does that mean that only younger women can have long hair?

It’s almost as though women hit 50 and a siren sounds alerting us to scalp them all. BAD IDEA!

Remember, the decision to have long or short hair should be inspired by the shape of your face and hair coloration (for the very grey ladies). Your style and occupation can also serve as factors when making such a decision. As we mature, we cannot help avoiding the changes in our skin. If the hair is too long and heavy, it can create heaviness in a woman’s features. Naturally, this depends on the woman.

So the lesson is – no matter the length, the idea is to create lift, lift and more lift!

This is how we tear the short hair myth apart. A great haircut – no matter the length – can make all the difference in the world. It will give a woman the softness and sexiness she still feels and deserves in her best years. Long hair can be softened with angles and layers in all the right places to enhance one’s natural beauty. And short hair can enhance texture and works best with the face and head shape.

THINGS TO BE AWARE OF…

1. The change in texture because of graying hair.

Because of this, attention must be paid to the technique used in achieving the right look.

2. Thinning of the hair line.

Most men and women experience this. The right approach with layering, product use and styling can help both long and short hair.

3. The change in a woman’s facial features.

As a woman matures, the focus on her features almost dictates her cut creating lift, softness or strength where necessary.

4. Tools that should be used.

For women who have never had a razor used on their hair, this may be the time. The coarseness of grey hair can be blended well if a razor is used correctly.

Ladies, I’m with you on embracing beauty all around. My clients know that I’m not shy to say whether or not a cut is age-appropriate, be it too young or way too mature.

I wish you all the best in your Golden Years!

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

HAIR BY ANTONIO

2009-10-14T09:42:00.000-07:00

When I look at someone I think of the mood I want to create..

HAIR - ANTONIO GONZALES

PHOTOGRAPHY- JUSTIN-JULIUS SANTOS
http://www.jjsantos.com/

MAKEUP- TIMOTHY HARVEY
timothy.harvey1@gmail.com

STYLIST- CHRISTOPHER GONZALES
gochristo@gmail.com

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

CELLOPHANE – ITS NOT JUST FOR GIFT BASKETS ANYMORE

2009-10-13T08:24:00.001-07:00

READER…

Hi Antonio! You have a great blog. I found your site when I did a Google for “red hair care tips”. I saw that you mentioned Sebastian Cellophanes and would like some information on how I could purchase this product myself. I am a natural redhead that is unfortunately fading to a dull auburn with age.

I always end up disappointed with the results of professional color and the resulting roots. I would love to just try and revive my natural, formerly lovely color with these sheer color shine treatments. I feel Cellophanes will be the way to go for me.

I think if I was able to get my hands on some Cellophanes product, I might be able to bring it in to a local hairdresser and have her apply it. I hate living in Panama City Beach (Redneck Riviera) as we have very few truly talented stylists like you.

I was wondering your opinion on what I should choose as far as tone. I am trying to avoid coloring my hair for as long as possible to get some more health back into my hair.

ANTONIO…

Thanks so much for writing. You sound like a great candidate for Sebastian Cellophanes. The only challenge is that it’s normally only sold to professionals (as far as I know). Also, it’s heat activated so you’ll need a hooded hair dryer in order to apply a constant flow of heat to your hair for 20 minutes.

Do you have one?

When choosing a color be aware that all reds have different tones. Some are copper/orange reds and others are violet or blue/reds. I’ve added two photographs to illustrate the difference between two of my redheaded clients.

The long hair is a copper/red

And the bob cut is more of a blue/red

(at least when I did them they were; I hope the computer image is accurate). Okay, here is a formula from Cellophanes that may help. Keep in mind that I cannot actually see your color so I’m working from the images you sent.

The great thing about this color is that if it’s a little off, it fades with no residue and you are back where you started from. However, I know this will brighten things up for sure!!! You’ll need to get three different colors from Sebastian Cellophanes – red/red, gold/red and clear.

Tell the stylist to shampoo, towel dry well and apply the color as close to your scalp as possible. Child…it stains so they need to wear gloves and not get it on your skin. After applying the color, wrap it with a plastic wrap and sit underneath a hot dryer for 20 minutes. Then, take off the plastic and allow to cool for five minutes. Rinse well!

Let’s start off with a safe formula – ¾ oz. Clear, ¼ oz. gold/red and a squirt of red/red.

Again, this is a safe formula as the clear will help dilute the reds. If it’s not red enough when it dries, let me know. In any case, your hair will be very shiny. And remember that the more you shampoo, the faster it will fade.

Let me know how it works.

READER…

Hi Antonio. You helped me out last month with my Cellophanes question. I just wanted to share my awesome results with you. I decided that I could handle doing the treatment on my own. I purchased a thermal spa cap (works GREAT and very convenient), a mixing bowl and some brushes and went for it.

I used ¾ oz. gold/red, ¼ oz. red/red and clear mix. The color turned out beautiful! What I loved was that it actually gave a great amount of coverage over the older color I was unhappy with. You can barely see a line of demarcation from the old color and my untreated healthy roots.

I have a couple white hairs that grow in and the color even blended those away.

The thing that I am most impressed with though is the silkiness, health and shine of my hair. I was able to get my hair to look like that with just a warm blow dry and a regular rounded rubber tip brush. I didn’t even have to use a round brush or flat iron. In Florida, that is an accomplishment.

ANTONIO

Thank you and I am so happy I could help. I wish you beautiful shiny hair!

AFG
Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

2009-10-13T08:24:00.000-07:00

Cellophane – It’s Not Just for Gift Baskets Anymore

READER…

Hi Antonio! You have a great blog. I found your site when I did a Google for “red hair care tips”. I saw that you mentioned Sebastian Cellophanes and would like some information on how I could purchase this product myself. I am a natural redhead that is unfortunately fading to a dull auburn with age.

I always end up disappointed with the results of professional color and the resulting roots. I would love to just try and revive my natural, formerly lovely color with these sheer color shine treatments. I feel Cellophanes will be the way to go for me.

I think if I was able to get my hands on some Cellophanes product, I might be able to bring it in to a local hairdresser and have her apply it. I hate living in Panama City Beach (Redneck Riviera) as we have very few truly talented stylists like you.

I was wondering your opinion on what I should choose as far as tone. I am trying to avoid coloring my hair for as long as possible to get some more health back into my hair.

ANTONIO…

Thanks so much for writing. You sound like a great candidate for Sebastian Cellophanes. The only challenge is that it’s normally only sold to professionals (as far as I know). Also, it’s heat activated so you’ll need a hooded hair dryer in order to apply a constant flow of heat to your hair for 20 minutes.

Do you have one?

When choosing a color be aware that all reds have different tones. Some are copper/orange reds and others are violet or blue/reds. I’ve added two photographs to illustrate the difference between two of my redheaded clients.

The long hair is a copper/red and the bob cut is more of a blue/red (at least when I did them they were; I hope the computer image is accurate). Okay, here is a formula from Cellophanes that may help. Keep in mind that I cannot actually see your color so I’m working from the images you sent.

The great thing about this color is that if it’s a little off, it fades with no residue and you are back where you started from. However, I know this will brighten things up for sure!!! You’ll need to get three different colors from Sebastian Cellophanes – red/red, gold/red and clear.

Tell the stylist to shampoo, towel dry well and apply the color as close to your scalp as possible. Child…it stains so they need to wear gloves and not get it on your skin. After applying the color, wrap it with a plastic wrap and sit underneath a hot dryer for 20 minutes. Then, take off the plastic and allow to cool for five minutes. Rinse well!

Let’s start off with a safe formula – ¾ oz. Clear, ¼ oz. gold/red and a squirt of red/red.

Again, this is a safe formula as the clear will help dilute the reds. If it’s not red enough when it dries, let me know. In any case, your hair will be very shiny. And remember that the more you shampoo, the faster it will fade.

Let me know how it works.

READER…

Hi Antonio. You helped me out last month with my Cellophanes question. I just wanted to share my awesome results with you. I decided that I could handle doing the treatment on my own. I purchased a thermal spa cap (works GREAT and very convenient), a mixing bowl and some brushes and went for it.

I used ¾ oz. gold/red, ¼ oz. red/red and clear mix. The color turned out beautiful! What I loved was that it actually gave a great amount of coverage over the older color I was unhappy with. You can barely see a line of demarcation from the old color and my untreated healthy roots.

I have a couple white hairs that grow in and the color even blended those away.

The thing that I am most impressed with though is the silkiness, health and shine of my hair. I was able to get my hair to look like that with just a warm blow dry and a regular rounded rubber tip brush. I didn’t even have to use a round brush or flat iron. In Florida, that is an accomplishment.

MY CLIENT THE ARTIST

2009-10-08T13:15:00.001-07:00

I’ll be attending my client’s opening this Friday and thought I’d share her art and the experience with you.

Tricia Wright was born and raised in England, later moving from London to New York in 1999. She oversees a full-time studio on the Hudson River and regularly showcases her work in solo and group exhibitions throughout New York and on the West Coast.

Tricia’s work explores aspects of the home and domestic environment. She approaches her subject from both a feminist position and also from a broader, gender-neutral base that explores our complex relationship to this enclosed world.

You can find her work in public, corporate and private collections in the UK and US. These include, but are not limited to The Hove Museum and Art Gallery (UK), White and Case LLP, Alliance Bernstein and the American Embassy.

Tricia Wright
Kenjiro Kitade
"DOUBLE-DUPLEX"
October 9 - November 7, 2009
Opening Reception, Friday - October 9, 6-9 pm

HPGRP Gallery New York
32-36 Little West 12th St., 2nd Floor
New York, NY 10014
212 727 7030
www.hpgrpgallery.com

HISTORY OF THE COMB OVER

2009-10-06T03:51:00.000-07:00

I love this article so much that I have to post it again!!

THE HISTORY OF THE COMB-OVER

Most of you may not know the real history of the comb-over -- yes, there is such a thing. We spend so much time avoiding the comb-over lovers that we neglect the fact that all styles (even bad ones) were born and. After much research, I am here to educate you:

The word comb-over comes from the French word cuovere, meaning to cover with a veil. This hair style can actually be traced back to 1774 and Alexander XVI of France, who was known for his keen sense of style, which brought him oodles of attention from all (even French poodles) and he was known for his creative ways with a wig. My research also revealed that he was most of all a trend-setter -- you better believe it, honey, Madonna was not the first to set a trend.

One day, Alexander (I feel as if he is a personal friend) decided to create a new trend, and for this he will be remembered forever. Picture this: FRANCE, Versailles, 1773. It was a warm, sweaty summer morning, and after doing his usual morning chores, which included fluffing his favorite wigs, Alexander had a vision. He saw a world free of those heavy, suffocating wigs, which most of the time had the smell of old, wet unmentionables. Knowing that it would be the most difficult of his trends to start, he brought the idea first to his closest friend, Aspirer Chapeau, who created and maintained all of his wigs. Aspirer at first was taken back by the absurd request of the king, because not only was it an embarrassment to be seen without one’s great hair, but it was a mark of the upper crust to have tresses from – and as big as -- the heavens. A.C. ( feel as if I know him so well) listened to his king rant about how freeing it would be to have one’s own hair liberated. There was only one problem. The king was badly balding and also refused to have a single hair cut. But A.C. had a plan. He confided in his friend, the famous architect Etienne-Louis Boullee, who constructed some of the masterpieces of Paris. After endless drawings and live models, the two conspirators came up with a design, and – pouf -- the COMB-OVER was born.

A.C. started flipping and fluffing Alexander’s few strands of hair with such speed and talent (limp wrists come in handy) and presented a masterpiece of Le Cuovere. Alexander was thrilled to bits and decided to wear his new do to the grand ball that evening. Well, as the story goes,as soon as he stepped in to the club, he was quickly stoned to death and that was that.

So the next time you see a comb-over, just appreciate the history and limp wrists that went in to creating a trend that has and will survive the test of time.

This is clearly all made up just for fun, what the heck!

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

SHOOT IN BROOKLYN

2009-10-05T05:51:00.000-07:00

FALL COLOR TIPS FOR THE NEW YORK BLOND

2009-10-04T08:22:00.000-07:00

Now is a time when we consider changing our hair color as the season changes. This is usually the time we tend to go a little darker. Be it low lights, darker shades of blond or back to natural, we all feel the need to add some richness to our summer blond. As we already know with fall and winter our skin tones begin to fade and being too blond can leave you looking a little washed out. If you are blond and wish to be a bit richer, why not be creative with your color?

rather than simply settling for low lights here are some tips to get you on the right track. I like looking at the hair from the back first, then the sides and the front last. I am able to get a complete view of my canvas this way. The head is round, so when we look in the mirror we only see a small piece of the pie. Keep this in mind as you are brainstorming about your color transition.

This a great time to apply some different shades of depth to your hair than normal. Consider having richer tones in the back then gradually place some deeper blond pieces through the front that are of a Cognac or medium golden blond tone. Another option would be to create depth by working with what you have at the back after a couple of months of not having your color done. This can be done by keeping the entire lower back of the hair at a soft light brown. This method allows the contrast of the depth in color to bring the focus to the top of the head. Then when you are comfortable you can gradually include more dark pieces through the back and front hair line (Not too dark that it looks fake or like you are training in beauty school and finally discovered hair color! Believe me, I remember my days).

I haven't forgotten about my brunettes! If you are a brunette it's a great idea to foil or paint a darker color rather than color the entire head. This gives dimension and still leaves you with that summer sparkle. Also try to experiment with shades of brown, and please DO NOT be afraid of warmth!! I have converted many women that were afraid of warmth. It does not have to be that WARM = Red!

Enjoy my darlings!!

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

MY CLIENTS BUSINESS

2009-10-03T19:16:00.000-07:00

My client recently invited me to Brooklyn to an event at her store. I loved the clothes so much that I want to share it with my readers. I am looking forward to enjoy some of their great clothing I will be sporting this winter.

Welcome to Epaulet..

http://www.epauletshop.com

HAPPY BIRTHDAY GANDHI!!

2009-10-02T06:56:00.000-07:00

First they ignore you, then they laugh at you, then they fight you, then you win.
Mohandas Gandhi

HAIR COLOR FOR MEN

2009-10-01T05:43:00.000-07:00

This is a topic that I get a lot of questions about so I could never write enough about it.

The reasons men enjoy their grays:

1) For the younger guys, it gives them the confidence in a work place where they may be considered young.

2) Some feel it gives that distinguish look for the ladies ;)

3) 50% of the men I work with, honestly, don't even care.

4) 10% care but pretend not to because of that bad memory of uncle Harry as a child with orange hair.

The reasons men don't enjoy the grays:

1) They may actually need to look younger in a competitive work place.

2) Some men are not blessed with great skin and age faster than others, a little color helps.

3) The texture can drastically change a gray blend with demi-permanent color. It can help calm the coarseness.

4) There are men that experience premature gray hair and the fight is too exhausting.

Mistakes made in Men's hair coloring:

1) Some men don't even know that they have a safe option to color

2) Colors are too red.

When working on men's hair the idea is to stay away from the warm tones and go with more neutral or Ashy tones. Its more masculine.

3) The hair color is way too dark.

Guys, if you are in your sixties chances are you have at least one strand of gray hair—like, hello!

4) Using permanent hair color.

This is the #1 mistake. Permanent hair color is way too harsh and covers too well. It is called gray blending not gray disappearing!

5) Leaving out the sideburns.

Okay please don't walk around with white sideburns and the rest of your hair is jet black, unless you are on the set of the Sopranos.

6) Bad highlights.

(this is a whole other article!)

Tips on getting great hair color

1) Do your research on a good colorist, then when you find one have a consultation. Take a photo from a Men's magazine.

2) Wearing your hair a little longer is worth it, this hides the roots a little and you don't keep having the color cut off every 4 weeks.

3) Finding a hairstylist that can offer more that 3 techniques to blending grays.

4) Leave drugstore hair color for the ladies, they seem to have better luck.

5) Maybe it is just meant to be… embrace it!

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

HAIR BY ANTONIO

2009-09-29T14:06:00.001-07:00

RED HAIR

2009-09-27T20:57:00.000-07:00

After many requests from readers about Redheads, particularly my model, I’ve decided to share with you my inspiration for choosing the color. When choosing the right red formulas there are a few things that must be considered.

1) The client’s idea of red. Since we all see color so differently I utilize a color swatch book to help the client understand what Red she’s looking for. When you look at color swatches you quickly realize that there are violet reds, copper reds, golden reds and so on.

2) While choosing the reds we talk about two things: The client’s existing hair color and texture and their skin tone. There are the obvious rules when it comes to skin tone and hair color but they can be broken if the client insists. As with any hair color these two things are very important in helping decide the best formula.

3) The application is also an important step to pay attention to. This depends on if the client has any existing gray hair or previous hair color.

This model is a longtime friend and this was easily the most daring color we have done on her. I used Color Touch by Wella. I have been using this product for over 7 years and I still love it. Because we had colored her hair dark brown about 2 months before I used Wella blondor lightener with 10 volume and warm water to soften the color on her ends allowing the red to be noticeable. I applied the lightener 1 inch away from the scalp and all the way through the ends. I washed and towel dried.

Then I used the permanent color by Wella Koleston Perfect on her roots. Because of the Ammonia and peroxide in permanent colors I was able to get the shade I needed on the root area. Then I used Color Touch on her ends to match the root color.

Here comes the final step: I now apply a Cellophane color to match the tones in my existing color. So if I gave my client a copper red I will not use violet red Cellophane. Cellophane helps to enhance the red and add unspeakable shine. I have been using Cellophane's for over 10 years. I love it!

So, if you are ever interested in being a Redhead go for it, their is a Redhead dying to come out of most of us!

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

TEMPTU MAKEUP

2009-09-27T20:44:00.000-07:00

I am so excited to tell you about my clients company, its called
Temptu! What or who is Temptu?

Temptu is a leader in professional makeup applications, formulas and
innovations dedicated to providing the beauty industry with the
highest quality cosmetics. Temptu’s extensive range of products is
sold in more than 50 countries and territories around the world.
Founded in 1981 and now recognized as a leading authority in airbrush
makeup, Temptu works with chemists, engineers, and makeup
professionals in film, television and fashion to develop advanced
makeup formulas and technologies. Temptu products have been seen on
Daniel Craig in Quantum of Solace, Vanessa Williams in Ugly Betty,
Nicole Kidman in The Stepford Wives, the cast of Desperate Housewives,
the on-air talent for CNN and Entertainment Tonight, and used behind
the scenes for Christian Dior, Diesel, Trovata, Italian Vogue, W and
Harper’s Bazaar. For more information, go to www.temptu.com.

Temptu to the Consumer

The Temptu Consumer makeup line is based around the revolutionary,
patent-pending Temptu AIRbrush Makeup System and makeup AIR pod — an
easy-to-use, at-home airbrush makeup system that utilizes a disposable
pod system. For the first time, consumers can achieve professional
quality, airbrush makeup results without the complexity and training
needed to operate a professional airbrush makeup system. The Temptu
makeup AIR pod delivers pro results with total ease – just pop it on
and pop it off. The airbrush makeup formulas are encapsulated in
pre-arranged makeup pods that contain foundation, blush and highlight
colors individually. Each Temptu AIR Pod contains 1 – 2 months of
makeup, is self-sealing, and enables the user to achieve the
equivalent of 4 brushes in one for applications ranging from
foundation to blush and beyond.

Temptu Retouch is a complementary product line that includes an
all-in-one, on-the-go, conventional brush with makeup – in foundation,
blush, and highlighter categories — to complement the airbrush makeup
application for touch-ups.

Temptu AIRbrush makeup and Retouch formulas are made of cosmetic-grade
silicone for long-wearing and flawless coverage, and feature
ingredients Ceramide 3, Olive Oil, Vitamin C, squalene and
marine-derivatives for all-day moisturizing and nourishment for the
skin. The Temptu AIRbrush Makeup System, AIR pods and Retouch will be
available online at www.sephora.com August 1, 2009 and in Sephora
nationwide September 15, 2009. The product retail price range is from
$35 - $225.

I wish you great shopping!

WHAT HAIR DRYER SHOULD I USE?

2009-09-25T05:15:00.000-07:00

So get this my darlings, as you may know in the past year I have raved about two blow dryers and the outstanding way they perform. So one day while minding my own business I opened my closet of goodies (hair products) and guess who was staring at me? You guessed right, the two dryers that I wrote about. So as usual the hair dryers and I started to conversate (says Beyonce). They were tired of both being in my closet and wanted to come out (every boys dream). So I decided that the only way to freedom was to compete, a heated death match!

As you already know I'm not here to tell you the life history of these dryers using words like tourmaline and Nano, I'm here to tell you the truth without the fluff. Both dryers have the best features of most dryers today and they’re are very efficient.

After an obstacle course and some serious testing, here are my findings:

1) They are both light in weight so no need to do squats and push ups.

2) They both have nozzles that turn making it easy to work around the head.

3) They both promised all the latest in preventing over drying of your hair.

But there was one big difference…

The featherweight dryer dries hair very well and the shine really impressed me. Because it never gets too hot you can almost never smell burning hair. But it may require a little more elbow power due to the lower heat level.

The FHI also works well but I realized something that concerns me. It has two levels of heat. The first setting is hot enough to dry the hair well and add shine but the second heat level really hot, it's slap me in the face and call me Susie hot! Oooh child!

After working with these two dryers I made the decision that the featherweight is the better choice. I like this dryer because you can never make it too hot. Whereas the FHI works great BUT the super high heat level is just not necessary. It might feel like it’s drying your hair faster but in lazy hands it could be a problem. The problem is most women think the hotter the dryer the better is,WRONG! 70% of hair types should stay away from the very hot level in most dryers.

So there you have it. I hope you learned something today and stay tuned for the battle of the flatirons!

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

IT BEGAN IN TRINIDAD & TOBAGO

2009-09-24T20:01:00.000-07:00

TRINIDAD

The fact that my two hands can have such an impact on someone’s day or their life makes waking up in the morning all the more worth it.

My introduction to hair started when I met Anthony Medina. I was eighteen years old. Anthony is not only one of the greatest hairstylists that I have ever met but he is an incredible makeup artist and designer as well. You may ask, can one person have all this talent? Well, ladies and gentlemen, yes he can! I would sit and watch him make women feel like they were "reborn" with one hairstyle. He would tap into beauty that they never knew they had. I observed client after client leave "transformed” and I knew right then and there that I was born to be a hairstylist. I was just waiting to be discovered.

TOBAGO

The first time I left the island at age eighteen (was also my first time on a plane, too) was to visit the International Beauty Show at the Jacob Javitz center. Well, can I tell you, my jaw dropped! I could not believe my eyes. Anthony showed me the in and outs of the fashion & hair industries with the help of his close childhood friend and WORLD RENOWNED stylist, Freddie Lieba.(If you are anyone important in the world of photography, fashion and/or Hollywood, you’ve most likely been blessed with Freddie’s Trinidadian born talent.) After the Beauty Show whirlwind I was whisked off to the Bronx to meet another Trinidadian born master hairstylist who created many of his own techniques on hair extensions, Clem Lu Yat.

Nearly two decades ago, I was given the gift of knowing that I could make it in NYC. I could not have done it without these three men planting the seeds, which allowed me to have the never-ending passion to "do hair.”

Thanks my fellow Trinis.

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

SHORT HAIR CUT IN NEW YORK

2009-09-23T04:43:00.000-07:00

Scenario:

You got one of those fierce short cuts and worked it from Spring to Summer. Then you woke up after a long run with your fierceness looked in the mirror and you're over it. Your thoughts are, "I guess it’s time to grow my hair.” Not having gone through this experience before you are convinced that your hairdresser will just wave his magic wand and all will be well…

Sugar, you have a process ahead of you and it takes a skilled stylist to gently maneuver you through the changes of hair length while still maintaining a sexy style. The idea is not to make your in-between length hair look like your Great Aunt Esmeralda after the beauty Parlor.

It is important to know that different hair textures present different hair challenges during that in-between stage when growing your hair out. Hair are some tips to help.

1) If you have fine straight hair it’s important for your stylist to properly select the tools they use. There are times when the razor will work but after several cuts it stops, making hair weak or flat. At some point during this transition you may benefit from a scissor cut and dry cutting. The idea is to keep blending the straight ends, giving the hair some versatility.

2) The hair around the face should be the main focus in terms of maintaining a style. This pulls the attention away from the sides and length, giving you something to work with.

3) Products will be your best friends during these turbulent times, allowing you to have manageability and versatility.

4) If your hair is annoying you while growing it out stay away from tiny butterfly clips. In fact, stay away from them altogether…forever. I really think that a mean alien invented those things as a cruel joke against the human race.

5) For thick hair, a light trim with a razor will allow you to get past the initial introduction to growing out your short cut. It will soften edges giving flexibility and control.

6) Stay away from thinning shears! It is not always the safest way to remove bulk. It creates shorter hair within the hair and it can all work against you.

Working with the shape of the face is very important. When the hair hits the in-between stage you maybe tempted to cut it all off again so consult with your stylist before moving forward. Its not always fun but the results will bring you a smile.

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

TODAYS SHOOT.

2009-09-21T20:33:00.000-07:00

And what a glorious day it was!!

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

EVENING HAIR

2009-09-17T19:21:00.000-07:00

HAIR - ANTONIO GONZALES

PHOTOGRAPHY- JUSTIN-JULIUS SANTOS
http://www.jjsantos.com/

MAKEUP- TIMOTHY HARVEY
timothy.harvey1@gmail.com

STYLIST- CHRISTOPHER GONZALES
gochristo@gmail.com

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

TO PRE-DRY OR NOT TO PRE-DRY

2009-09-16T04:36:00.000-07:00

There is a lot of talk of pre-drying. For the hairdresser, it depends on their personal experience—the way we all see and feel hair can be so different. For the client, they learn from their hairstylist and having worked with their own hair for so long they have an opinion, too. My experience with pre-drying hair is that it can be a cure or a curse.

The advantages of pre-drying:

1) It removes excess water.

2) It avoids unnecessary over working of the hair. Saving the hairstylist from carpel tunnel and the client from whip lash!

3) The blow-dry requires much less time.

4) Some hair types actually respond better when they’re pre-dried about 60% (When you touch your hair and its a little limp from moisture but not enough moisture that your hair feels wet to the touch.)

5) Its a great way to insure volume even before the actual blow-dry starts.

If pre-drying is done incorrectly there can be many disadvantages:

1) It can make frizzy hair even frizzier

2) It can create unnecessary volume if you are looking for super sleek look.

3) It can make certain hair types too full so that when you try to refine the blow dry it takes twice as long to bring the hair back down to earth.

4) It can create dry ends that are difficult to polish, which then results in over-dried ends.

5) It can flatten the roots and make it difficult to get volume, which then has you doing back flips and squats to get some lift.

TIPS on pre-drying:

1) You need to know when to use your hands and when to use a brush—don’t get those two tools confused. This will also depend on your hair type so talk to your hairdresser.

2) Always make sure there is styling product in your hair when pre-drying, this will give you manageability from the get-go.

3) If you have wavy or curly locks but want smooth or sleek, remember, throwing your hair over and between your legs and drying it like a madwoman is not the answer. This only creates volume.

4) If you have pin straight hair the madwoman technique mentioned in #3 would be great for you.

Ultimately, talk to your hairdresser and get tips on how to make your life easier and enjoy your beautiful cut.

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

ANTONIO GONZALES WORKING AT ORLANDO PITA'S SALON

2009-09-12T15:22:00.000-07:00

I am thrilled to announce my move to the famed Orlo Salon. The opportunity to work with Orlando Pita is a personal dream come true. I know my clients will be pleased to learn that I will not be leaving the West Side. Orlo Salon is conveniently located at 34 Gansevoort Street on the 3rd Floor. For an appointment please call 212-242-3266. I am sure we'll all feel right at home in the new space. So sit back, relax and enjoy this journey with me and I promise to continue bringing you an "honest behind the scene look at beauty."

Please have a look at the following links and get to know Orlando Pita.

http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2009/02/video_backstage_beauty_with_or.html

http://www.hji.co.uk/blogs/main/2008/02/secrets-of-session-stylist-orlando-pitas-success.html

http://www.wmagazine.com/w/blogs/editorsblog/2009/02/23/why-i-love-orlando-pita.htm

http://www.wmagazine.com/beauty/2007/10/orlando_pita

I wish you all dreams that come true!

HAIRSTYLE 2009

2009-09-12T03:56:00.000-07:00

HAIR BY ANTONIO

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

NEW FOR THICK HAIR; OLEO SLIM

2009-09-09T05:24:00.000-07:00

NEW FOR THICK CURLY HAIR

Well Mizz Kerastase, talk about a breakthrough in hair-straightening technology! For the women with thick, thick, thick (did I mention thick?) hair, we now have a great answer for you: Oleo Relax Slim. Let me tell you child, it works!! I won't get into the extensive scientifics behind the making of this lovely product, but I will share my experience...

I used it on a client with thick, coarse, highlighted hair. The smell, delightful. The packaging, sleek. The product itself, really concentrated--so a little goes a LONG way! You may ask, what is the difference between Oleo Slim and the Oleo Relax? The difference is, the Slim is a cream while the Relax is a high grade Silicone. The Slim has the ability to flatten the hair shaft and the cuticle taking away the bulkiness of thick hair, till your next shampoo.

Users please let me know your thoughts.

I wish you slim hair!!

HAIR BY ANTONIO

2009-09-07T13:28:00.001-07:00

SAVING MONEY IN THE SALON

2009-09-07T09:33:00.000-07:00

Do you want to look beautiful but can't afford the commitment? Well, in a time when spending "crazy money" is a thing of the past I have come up with several ways to keep your clients happy (men and women) without denying them the right to feel and look good. Sit back, read and save on your hair!

1) With men's haircuts I offer complimentary cleanups (sideburns and neckline) between cuts. I simply pre-book his shape-up for two weeks following the initial cut. That way he doesn't have to ask his girlfriend to shave his side burns with his nose-hair trimmers. Today I find myself super busy and unable to get the guys in, but they understand :)

2) Ladies, you know those pesty bangs that always seem to grow an inch the first week after you leave the salon? Well, a great bang trim can make a cut go the extra mile, keeping you away from the salon (and out of your wallet) until you really need a serious cut.

3) For new male color clients who want to blend their grays: Instead of covering all of the hair with color I actually hand paint his his hair for a more natural look. It takes more time but the color is amazing and it grows out with less of a noticeable root line, prolonging the touch-up period.

4) Most of my blond babes know that I always encourage them to get their hair glossed seven to nine weeks after highlights. The treatment softens the root area, taking away the depth from the base. I also gently paint the hairline if necessary. This process buys them more time between highlights and costs a lot less ( Time may vary depending on client and the amount of roots they are comfortable seeing).

HAIR BY ANTONIO

5) Another tip for my fair-haired ladies... Now that fall is around the corner, going a little darker can be your best decision. Low lights can help blend your natural root color as it grows in keeping you away from the salon a bit longer.

6) If you are a brunette a with a lot of gray hair, I always hand paint the hairline with the finest highlights. So fine that your friends won't notice. What YOU will notice is the grays blending in much better, keeping you away from the salon. The dark root line is always a give away!

These are just a few of many tricks of the trade for my busy NYC ladies and men. I hope other hairdressers will share their tips as well so that clients may take advantage of them.

I wish you a smart approach to beautiful hair!

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

FOR THE NYC GIRL

2009-08-29T06:18:00.000-07:00

I went to visit a girlfriend recently at a leading Magazine publication firm in NYC. While I waited, I observed the women coming and going and I wondered what it must be like for a woman working in an industry where Image is paramount to their lives (and the lives of their readers) and how difficult it is to stand out in a building full of Savvy New Yorkers. As my girlfriend appeared through the deluge of savants I noticed her Bangs (fringe) that we had cut and how chic she looked. I thought—that’s it! Granted, a great haircut is an amazing way to turn heads, but bangs are a non-drastic and very chic update to just about any hairstyle. They allow women to wear their hair long or short while flattering the face. Of course, we all know that some hair types cannot wear bangs but lets focus on those who can for now.

Here are some tips on styling and getting a good bang! Well…you know what I mean :)

1) During my extensive Google research I happened upon several videos for cutting your own bangs. HONEY, if you live in Timbuktu maybe you can cut your own bangs, but if you live anywhere near a salon you should treat your self to a professional trim.

2) If you see someone on the street with great bangs, ask them where they get their haircut. Great bangs are a sure tell-tale sign of a good stylist.

3) Take pictures of bangs that you like to your hairstylist—it will be very helpful.

4) Bangs, like any cut, are a work of art; it takes sectioning the hair off of the face, then sectioning the bang and cutting thin sections at a time. If you see a stylist taking your entire bang and getting ready to cut, quickly excuse your self, grab your belongings and take your bangs back before its too late.

5) When looking at a client’s face I evaluate the strong areas and weak areas. Lets face it—some of our features are better than others. For example, if your forehead is too small but your cheekbones and jaw line are prominent, short cropped bangs could make your face look too heavy.. Why not do a lighter bang and create an opening to expose more of your forehead? This way the face Is elongated.

6) If you have a cowlick in your bang area and have trouble blow drying it try this: take a small flat brush and dry your bangs in both directions across the forehead with the tip of your hair brush. The idea is to soften the root of your bang by breaking down the base of the cowlick. When it softens and you see that the bang is a bit more manageable, take a round brush of your choice and continuing shaping the bang if needed.

7) If you have super straight hair with short bangs you may notice that even when you use a round brush the hair falls flat anyway, try this: apply a volumiing product on the root area, then without using a brush, hold the dryer and literally blow your bangs in the direction you want them to go, focusing on the roots. This is a trick I do in the salon for difficult bangs. Its simple and it works.

I read in a magazine that the best way to find a great hairstylist is to get a bang trim from them first. Well, what if they do an okay job? I guess you are stuck with this "thing" in your face for some time. Is it worth it? You be the judge.

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

I wish you all great bangs!

CHROMA REFLECT

2009-08-23T11:41:00.000-07:00

As I work with so many different product lines I am eager to bring you my results. As you already know I do not discriminate towards any product as long as it works. No what matter the price is, I will try it. Today I'm writing about one of the top product lines in the world from L’Oreal. Child, let me tell you, I love me some L’Oreal! Ever since I was a teenager in the Caribbean, I would use with their products. As I move forward in my career, so does L’Oreal with their research to bring you better products.

As consumers, we appreciate that, but then out of no where, they will bring us a product that really makes no sense. I love Kerastase but let’s talk about the Chroma Reflect line from Kerastase. I have no idea where this product belongs on the shelf. They recommend if I need moisture, I should use the Nutritive line (orange). If my hair is breaking, I use the Resistance line (green). If I'm in the sun, I use the Soleil line (red) and if I have scalp issues, I use the Specifique line (white). They are all meant for color treated hair and they all make the hair shine. But with Chroma Reflect they promise me an amazing product for color treated hair and great shine. But guess what,I see blonds using it but it’s not for blonds. It’s not for damaged hair either. Evidently, Chroma Reflect is for healthy Brunettes! Even my clients are confused and I'm as confused as you are. If this line is for healthy hair, why can’t I use the orange line instead? Or does it have shine properties discovered in Mars that are so amazing, they needed to create a separate line of products. Give me a break, I have had this product at my station for the past five years and I have used it twice. I just don't see the need. So in a time where every dollar matters let’s be wise and get a product that we can all agree on that's works.

Stay tuned for more on how to save your money by shopping smart.

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

MY HAIRCUT IN PREF MAGAZINE

2009-08-19T15:11:00.001-07:00

STOP THE BREAKAGE

2009-08-17T21:40:00.001-07:00

7 THINGS THAT CAN BREAK FINE HAIR

1) Highlights being processed under heat lamps, dryers or any heat producing tool.

Ask your stylist to not use heat when getting highlights. It may take a little longer without heat but it's worth it. When I'm applying color and bleach gets on my fingers, it actually burns the skin. So put that on fine hair with heat and it's dry hair galore!

2) 40 volume peroxide with bleach for your highlights equals your hair on the floor.

I use 40 volume on super black virgin Asian hair that's super healthy. The highest volume peroxide I use on fine hair is 25 volume.

3) Metal brushes

I know, I know you love you some metal hair brushes but the fact is they get very hot! So take your fine hair, add a hot dryer and a metal brush and you are begging for damage.

4) An aggressive hairstylist that can't blow hair.

Child we have seen them all. They blow your fine hair like they blowing the hair of a Musk Oxen ( google it )

5) Poor hair care routine

I know when you have fine hair your concern is products weighing your hair down. But you must treat your hair to a little loving. Use a hair mask on the day you are not hitting the town, so if your hair is a little flat it’s okay.

6) Plastic hair brushes with plastic bristles

I would not even use plastic hair brush on my Barbie as a child (oops)

7) Rubber bands for your ponytails

I hope you understand that this is a long time culprit for breaking hair, get a band that's gentle on your hair. But please not a Hello Kitty ponytail holder.

We all had healthy hair at some point in our lives. Let’s retrace our steps and stop the breakage!

AFG

--
hairbyantonio.blogspot.com

THE TRUTH ABOUT YOUR HAIR PRODUCTS

2009-08-13T06:44:00.000-07:00

LETS BE HONEST

Have you noticed that some hair product companies never know when to stop making products that seem to be a waste of time? I recently noticed one company created a shampoo for fine hair, then for thick hair, limp hair, tired hair, stressed hair, color treated hair and hair that has an attitude. It seriously got me thinking and I had to blog about it. A hair care company may have a great product that we all enjoy, and then before you know it, they will add another product in the same line with a different color bottle, a different smell and promising you the world! Although they already have a great product they insist that this one, when added to your routine, will make all the difference. They use words like skinny, slim, slimming, age recharge and youthful. Is it a shampoo or a fitness instructor? I recently used a shampoo that claimed to have Diamond dust in it, child I was about to buy 10 jars and make me some big Diamond hoops! Come on guys we may have dry hair but we are not retarded!

Recently, a hair product I use launched a new shampoo and I realized something. These professional product companies are targeting hairstylists big time. They know that we get very excited with a new bottle, smell and shape. Once upon a time, I used to get so excited about new products. Now I pay attention to one out of five of them. Professional product companies also know that if we get excited the next step will be for us to tell the client about it. They know that we are the ones to get the products off the shelves and into your bags. As someone who firmly believes in professional and non professional hair care and supports both groups, I believe that the consumer comes first. There are some professional hair care products that I think are amazing and some that I think are a waste of time and the same goes for the non-professional ones.

I must admit, it does tick me off a little. Is this what consumers feel like? The truth is that a great haircut is better with great product. When I do a haircut or color, the feeling of reaching for a product that will compliment my work feels great. I also know for a fact that professional hair care companies have spent Billions researching ingredients to revolutionize the industry in a positive way, but give us a break already. All we want is clean healthy hair. Please don't promise consumers that with one shampoo they will look 10 years younger. It’s just a shampoo not a miracle!

I wish you great products that you actually need :)

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

WE ALL WANT HEALTHY HAIR THAT SHINES

2009-08-13T06:25:00.000-07:00

WHY CELLOPHANES

I have worked with this product for the past 15 years and I love it! I have written about it, talked about on radio shows and I think its finally making a come back. Its called Cellophanes by Sebastian. I remember working on a hair show in Trinidad in 1990 I think(yes we have hair shows) and assisting a friend Anthony Medina who is an Amazing Hairstylist. We were working for a another product Company but could not get the shine we wanted. Our models hair were stressed from all the hot Sun and rum :) We knew the only was to get this was from Cellophanes. So lets chat a little..

IS CELLOPHANE FOR YOU?

Honey this can be used on you, your child, color treated hair, virgin hair, men and women even your dog Hercules!

DOES IT HAVE PEROXIDE OR AMMONIA?

When I last checked it did not, which is why It cannot make dark hair lighter.

DOES IT COVER GRAY?

No it does not. Think of it this way; If you take a sheet of red cellophane paper and you lay it over any object, it does not block the object 100% It casts a shade of red on the object allowing depth and light to shine through. Cellophane color may stain the Gray hair over time but because of no ammonia and peroxide don't expect gray coverage.

CAN IT BE HARMFUL TO THE HAIR?

It would be the least harmful of most colors I use. Because it mainly stains the hair it fades after some time.

IS CELLOPHANES SIMILAR TO HENNA?

Hell's no!! After my research on henna and years of seeing hair that has been colored by henna I can safely say that they are not the same. They both coat the hair but Henna tends to do more staining that Cellophanes in a negative way. When Cellophanes fades the hair feels good, henna takes forever to leave the hair and can make future coloring difficult. I'm not a HH (henna hater), I just don't believe in it.

I hope these Q&A's give you more insight on one of my favorite products.

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

RED TO DIE FOR!

2009-08-07T09:25:00.000-07:00

This one of my clients on her recent shoot. I did her color and the rest was up to these guys.

Photographer- Renie Saliba
Hairstyle/Makeup- Encruma Garriques
Model-Model Service Agency

Great job guys!

How to protect your red hair.

Tip No. 1: Always have your hair color applied to clean hair.

Yes, I know about the old wives tale that your color takes better on dirty hair. Well it's actually not true. This concept is from back in the days when the chemicals in hair color were much stronger so that the build-up of natural hair oils helped protect the hair. Color is now much more refined and less damaging to your hair.On clean hair the color penetrates better and last longer on clean hair.

Tip No. 2: Try Semi-Permanent Color by Wella Color Touch.

Wella's reds are out of this world. Not only do they have every shade of red, the colors are shiny and sexy. My favorite shades by this brand are 6/4, 7/43 and 8/40.

Tip No. 3: Avoid washing your hair 48 hrs after getting your hair colored.

Red molecules are large, and aggravating the cuticle soon after getting your hair colored with hot water and shampoo can release pigment prematurely. Also I always use cool water on my Reds.

Tip No. 4: Do not do hair treatments the day you have your hair colored.

This can also allow red molecules to be released.

Tip No. 5: Wear caps when going to the tanning salon.

You need to protect your hair when you tan, believe me tins is so true!

Tip No. 6: Wear hats or UV protection on your hair in the sun to prevent fading.

The sun can be damaging to hair, so protect hair when hanging out in the sun all day.

Tip No. 7: Get a clear or red Cellophanes gloss after having your hair colored.

Cellophanes are vegetable colors that are safer than henna and fade gently without the residue. It is applied to the hair, then you are placed under the dryer for 20 minutes. This seals the color and gives your hair great shine. Be sure to use a red that it is in the same red tones. So if your hair is a copper red don't use a violet red cellophane.

Tip No. 7: Don't use harsh shampoos.

You spend a lot of money on your hair color. It is time to invest in a good shampoo specially designed for color-treated hair. I recommend using color support shampoos and conditioners by Bumble and Bumble. Just make sure you consult with your hairstylist first to make sure you are not using a copper red shampoo on a blue red color.

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

PRESS

2009-07-31T05:48:00.000-07:00

BEST HAIRCUT IN NYC 2008

GUEST WRITER FOR THE BEAUTY COLUMN AND FOR FASHION/MEN'S GROOMING.

LETS BE HONEST!

2009-07-29T10:30:00.001-07:00

I have received so many emails from readers thanking me for being honest about the products I write about good or bad. I have always felt that honesty is the best policy when it comes to my industry, your wallets and pocketbooks.

I want to keep comesse as a platform for honest, down to earth information on my industry. The idea is to always educate the public with all of their beauty needs, leaving the fluff behind. The message I am sending is "the client is the most valuable person and should be treated so".

In coming posts you will see my advice take a new direction in being a bit more critical on the products that are, well just not helpful. Keep in mind that every product I write about I actually use, even the drug store products. It’s all about honesty babe! So I invite you to write to me with questions on any particular product professional or not. Or if you have a product you would like me to try I would be more than happy to put it to the test.

So, sit back, relax and welcome to comesse!

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

THE DEATH OF THE MOHAWK

2009-07-27T20:26:00.000-07:00

I recently posted an article about the Mohawk and the popularity of this reemerging trend. Now after my recent trip to L.A. and seeing everyone and their Poodle in the style, I am writing to say the new trend is now to get rid of the MOHAWK!! It has been done and done with!! So, if you are thinking of getting one, think again.

I have great news. There is a new trend in the making and it will be interesting to see if this trend would be right for the everyday man. It’s hair color for men. I'm not talking about at home colors, grey blending or being adventures by experimenting with lemon juice. No honey!! I'm talking about professional hair color. Colors like cool blonds and strong reds. As I thumb through some of my favorite men's magazines, Prada seems to be carrying the trend for now for fall. Overall, the colors are beautiful, butch and bold! (All at once!!)

Speaking of butch, another trend is well placed panels of bright colors.

As I was on the train to Williamsburg last week, I saw someone making an attempt at some fuchsia chunks. It worked for a moment but he really needed a little help from us professionals.

If you are going to experiment with color, this is no time to cut corners. Make sure you go to someone with lots of experience. We want you to look trendy, not tragic!!!

So guys lets get rid of the hawk and embrace some sexy hair color.

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

CUT AND COLOR FOR CURLY HAIR

2009-07-24T04:41:00.000-07:00

Curly hair can be sexy at any length and color. So many women are now embracing their curls rather than the endless early morning struggles with flat irons and blow dryers. Even the women with some wave who never thought they had enough texture are definitely open to seeing what they can get out of the hair they have straightened for so long, enough is enough! Don't get me wrong, straight hair is still sought after by many women. The majority of women, however, are open to getting educated by their friends with curly hair and a stylist to recommend the right tools, techniques and better hair cuts to help sport frizz free, curly hair.

My model came to me with hair pass her shoulders and medium brown color with faded ends. We spoke for quite sometime about life and realized that 30 minutes had passed and I had not even fluffed one curl!! Finally we started talking hair. She was ready to go dark and short. Neither had she been before so I was excited to work with her giving her what she wanted with my ideas added to create the right shape.

THE CONSULTATION
As with most women that have curly hair, we were faced with curls of different texture at different areas of her head. The back was thick and had a strong curl. The hair on top and sides were finer than the back and actually the curl was perfect. It was a looser curl than the back with definition. Another challenge was the front hair line was a little frizzy. As we talked about her hair cut we kept in mind how the different areas would have to be cut differently.

I decided to cut first. I also decided to cut her hair dry, just as she walked in but brushed out. Even though it was brushed out the difference in texture would be still visible.

THE CUT
Keeping in mind that she wanted short hair no matter what, I convinced her to not take the over all length too short. First I cut the back a lot shorter than the front, so that she would still feel like she got the short cut she wanted. (Keeping in mind that we did not want to give her the appearance of Posh what’s her face.) (The one married to that scrumptious Soccer player.)

Because of her gorgeous strong features and long neck we agreed to create softness around the face by creating layers. I explained that when creating layers around the face the most important part is keeping in mind the bangs and their ability to be a tighter texture. The challenge is that, if the bangs are cut to short, they could look like a bunch of grapes. And not plump desirable grapes either, but those grapes that have been left out too long in the sun. In other words a bunch of raisins, LOL!! (I crack myself up!) Overall we were able to complete a shape that we both liked from the profile and head on.

THE COLOR
This was the easy part. My model wanted to be a brunette and loved the idea of rich warm tones. I decided to do highlights and low lights and then glaze the entire head with our desired color. The idea is to create dimension and sparkle while still being a rich brunette. I first highlighted using the foil technique. On curly hair I recommend getting the hair high lighted and low lighted a little chunkier than normal. For the highlight I used Platinum Clay lightener by L’Oreal and for the low light I used Color Wear 7/3. The low light was a little chunkier than the highlight to get more coverage. After the color processed to my liking I then rinsed and used a gloss by Color Wear over the entire head. For the gloss I mixed Color Wear 7/32 7/3 and clear. I added the clear to help me get a more translucent appearance. I left the glaze on for 10 minutes and then we were ready to take her to the mirror and unveil her new do.

HAIR BY ANTONIO
MAKEUP BY VINETTA SCRIVO http://www.vinnettascrivo.com/
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Justin-Julius Santos. www.jjsantos.com

We were both happy with the end result and hope you are too.

I wish you great curls baby!

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

ANTONIO GONZALES IN ALLURE MAGAZINE

2009-07-17T12:42:00.000-07:00

WHEN I LOOK AT A WOMAN I THINK OF THE MOOD I WANT TO CREATE

2009-07-15T17:59:00.000-07:00

HAIR BY ANTONIO
MAKEUP BY VINETTA SCRIVO http://www.vinnettascrivo.com/
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Justin-Julius Santos. www.jjsantos.com
MODEL- Sarah Anne Stewart
AGENCY- Mc2

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

TIPS ON FINDING THE RIGHT HAIR CUT

2009-07-13T14:50:00.000-07:00

Do you ever browse through magazines for a photo to clip out and take to your hair stylist? Well, if you do, here are some tips on how to make sure that you are asking your stylist to do something that is, frankly, in the realm of possibility.

1) Do you have the same hair texture?

Ladies and men, please make sure the texture of the person in the picture is similar to yours. If you are a blond, don't bring in a picture of Erykah Badu and ask for her hair. It ain't happening!

2) Do you have the same face shape?

The shape of the person in the photo could be very different from yours, resulting a real a shocker when you see your new cut.

3) If the hairstylist dislikes the idea of your bringing in a photo, tell him or her to go inhale some bleach! Then find a new stylist.

4) Be sure to confirm how much hair will be cut off.

Shoulder length on a photo and on your own body can be two very different experiences

5) Are you and your stylist seeing the same colors in the photo?

Ask to see a swatch, to be sure you are on the same page.

6) And if you are bringing in photos of celebrities, keep in mind that they probably have hair extensions and live-in hair stylists.

Good luck!!

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

THE MOHAWK TREND

2009-07-10T20:05:00.001-07:00

Living in NY I find myself amazed by how fast trends come, get chewed up by the every day New Yorkers and then spit out as something totally new. I have been keeping a close eye on men's hair trends for the winter/spring. The short sides and longer tops was a hit on the run ways and on the street. There were so many versions of this style that I found myself walking down Broadway in Soho just to see how the style could be twisted. Then It seemed that for a certain group of young men it was time for the Mohawk to make a come back. No not the 10 inch tall Mohawks of the punk era or the one worn by today's Goth followers, but a refined version that has embraced my many ethnic backgrounds. What I find really interesting is the men who are now sporting the Mohawk are not the type that would normally wear a Mohawk.

Here are a few shots I took people I saw on the streets.

And here are 2 versions of the HAWK that I did to share with my readers.

Enjoy and I wish you to be inspired.

AFG

HOME MADE HAIR TREATMENT

2009-07-10T17:00:00.001-07:00

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved
Photography- www.rileyandrileyphoto.com

Making your own hair treatment.

This is a very interesting topic. I never realized that so many people are open to the idea of making their own hair remedies from scratch. After working with so many hair products over the years, I took it for granted and depended on product manufactures to guide me and provide me with hair care tools. Now it is time for me to get in on the action of HHCR (home hair care remedies).

Ready?

I have researched many ingredients, mixing oils, fruits and even some ingredients from my native land (mosquitoes). I also tried a few home-made recipes that are being advertised. Some were good, some even great but many were just a plain old bad idea. Consequently, you should be careful before you use any remedy on your hair. This was the one that worked the best. I know because I tried it on my self and other friends. In case you were wondering, it was not tested on any animals.

FOR VIRGIN HAIR (for color treated hair remove Lemon)

The Ingredients-

VERY RIPE AVOCADO; Apart from making a mean Guacamole its has been known for its moisturizing oils.

VIRGIN OLIVE OIL: Is used all over the world in many home hair care recipes for soothing the cuticle.

ORGANIC EGG WHITE: Great source of protein

FRESH MINT: Great in preventing static on conditioned hair.

FRESH LEMON; A natural hair brightener

First whisk one egg white, half an ounce of lemon juice and half an ounce olive oil in a bowl. Then crush five mint leaves and an Avocado. Combine all ingredients and whisk for five minutes. I recommend shampooing with Green Tea Clarifying Shampoo by Aubrey Organics. Start by applying your treatment to clean partially towel dried hair, or as an intense treatment you can use the treatment on clean dry hair. Leave in your hair for five minutes and then rinse well. If you have stressed thirsty hair leave in for ten minutes and then rinse well. After rinsing, use the same
shampoo, but a lot less this time. Don't worry about the shampoo stripping the treatment. This treatment is so rich you will need to shampoo afterwards, trust me. When you are done, you would be amazed at how your hair will feel and the softness and shine will last for days!!

Look forward to more HHCR by hairbyantonio
Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

BEST HAIR DRYER

2009-07-08T19:53:00.000-07:00

http://www.misikko.com/fhi-1900-turbo-dryer-black.html

As you already know there is no advertising on my blog, which means I am allowed to be honest when I love or hate a product. I wanted to share with you a find like no other. It’s a find that I am happy to share because it will change your hair for sure! It’s an FHI Heat Nano Weight Pro 1900 Turbo Hair Dryer. Let’s cut to the chase. Here are the reasons I love it:

1) It’s the lightest dryer I have ever used. Most dryers can be a little heavy but this is like a feather.

2) It seems to dry the hair in half the time, no kidding. I am using it on my clients with thick hair and it’s a miracle!!

3) The shine on the hair is unbelievable. I know it's an Ionic dryer but I'm not going to get into all that drama. What’s important is that I used it and it works!

4) It is so silent, you have no idea. I can have a conversation without screaming at the client over some of those boat engine dryers.

5) The nozzle turns easily. Now that is a big deal. I am tired of trying to turn those piping hot nozzles and getting burnt.

I feel that most hair dryers should follow the example of this particular dryer and I'm happy that I found it. To get one I recommend going to misikko.com. I have ordered products from them in the past and the service is very fast and efficient.

Thanks Misikko!!!

AFG

NEW PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION

2009-07-08T06:16:00.000-07:00

Well, well... Bumble and bumble you did it again, you brought us a product that surpasses expectations. The Gellac is one of the most fun, creative products that Ive use since the Xtah line by Sebastian. I used the Gellac on myself to see what the big deal was. I read so many blogs that talked about the product but no one talked about using it on them selves. Well hello how can you recommend a product if you don't use it? Well that's what comesse is about, bringing you the truth.

I have been wearing my hair longer and it got warmer I decided to start using a gel and slicking my hair back. My hair texture is fine and curly, wavy on top and tight curls on the side (from my Ethiopian heritage). As it got longer I wanted something stronger, real strong! And my prayers were answered. I towel dried my hair as usual and applied a quarter size amount of Mizz Gellac. I quickly realised that I was able to play with my hair and sculpt a shape that was difficult to do with regular gel. The hold is amazing, the shine like glass and the best part is when it dries it can be brushed out. And guess what, when I brushed out my dried slicked back hair it was gorgeous!! If I may say so myself :)

I wish you fierce hair!!

TIPS TO TELL YOUR BARBER

2009-06-24T10:58:00.000-07:00

I was in my neighborhood walking down the street and I noticed a barber shop. Curiosity got the best of me and I stood outside the shop window looking like a crazy person. As I looked at the barber doing his thing it got me thinking, I wish I could run in there and direct the barber on how to keep the hair cut looking modern, taking away the tell tail signs of a cut that looks like it belongs on a boy.

Here are some guidelines on how to ask your Barber to keep your hair cut looking modern.

1) If your hair is always cut with clippers keep in mind that although it is fast it also leaves a harsh look to your cut.

Ask your barber to use scissors for the next cut, yes it will take longer but chances are you would be very happy with the outcome. This is providing that your barber can use the scissors for an entire cut? This skill separates the boys from the men.

2) Beware of the trimmer

When getting around the ear trimmed ask them to use a scissors not the trimmer. The trimmer can make you look like a Ken doll, there is no need for you to have the hair around the ear carved. It's not a turkey on Thanksgiving!!

3) Do not go way beyond the natural hair line.

Always request that they do not go past the natural hair line. This way you don't look like you were just giving an extra 2 inches of neck.

4) Thinning shears

This tool should be used mainly for the final clean up or blending of your cut. Sometimes it could actually do more good than bad. If you feel that your hair is getting limp or hard to style it could be that your hair needs to recover and needs some thickness to get the best out of your hair.

5) Use one barber

Guys I know at times it’s all about convenience but if you stay with one barber you can actually work towards a goal in terms of your desired look. If someone different cuts your hair every time, it may be difficult to explain what you want. All hair cutters see hair differently.

6) Quick cut

If your cut takes 10 minutes, guess what? All your co-workers know it because you don't look polished.

7) Products

This is an important part of maintaining a good hair cut. If your barber does not sell hair products, it’s a problem. You can get away from cutting too soon if you use good products.

8) Marine cut

If you are in your forties and sell Real Estate please don't try to look like a marine

9) Hygiene

Do you know that fluffy gadget they use to dust the hair off from around the neck and face? Well it’s a fact that, in many states, they are illegal and are impossible to disinfect. So in other words you are sharing perspiration with hundreds of other men.

Most importantly guys when people describe you to others please don't let them have to say, “You know Ken, yeah, he's the one with the really bad hair!” (It happens)

HOW TO KEEP YOUR GRAY HAIR SILVER AND SHINY WITHOUT HAIR COLOR.

2009-06-15T14:17:00.000-07:00

Ladies and gentlemen you know who you are. You, who can wear a full head of silver locks and turn heads in a room like gang busters! The fabulous few who have the perfect color (not purple) know that you not only need the right haircut, skin tone and attitude, you also need the right products. I am here to share with the rest of the world some of your favorite products and why they should be used.

Things that make your silver locks sad :(

Medication can deposit in the hair giving it a yellow cast

Smokers this can also deposit that cast of nicotine on your beautiful hair

If you're not grey enough (salt & pepper) your remaining dark hair can sometimes turn a little flat, mousy or just dull baby!

Too much hair spray and styling products can build up leaving behind a dulling affect, no good.

Things that can make your silver locks glad. :)

Use a clarifying shampoo once a week to help remove build up of products etc. My recommendations are;

L`Occitane - Lavender Harvest Clarifying Shampoo (2.5 oz.)

Paul Mitchell Clarifying Shampoo Three Removes Chlorine and Impurities
Use color shampoos and conditioners that will brighten your gray hair disguising that dulling affect. Some companies only make shampoos and some do color conditioners as well. Here are some of my favorites. For more pigment deposit leave shampoo or conditioner in for a few
minutes.

Bumble and Bumble Color Support Extra Mild Shampoo for Cool Brunettes 8.0 oz
Using Vinegar can help with removing residue. Make sure you are diluting the vinegar. Every article online has a different ratio but aim for about 1 tablespoon vinegar per 1 cup of water. Also you don't need to use it every time you shampoo. Twice a week is a lot.

Did someone Fancyful? This is old school but as we know we learn from the past masters. The first hair dresser I worked with still uses this product and swears by it. Trust him, look where it got me!! Apply a few drops throughout your hair. Work through and dry.

I wish you great hair one strand at a time!

Comesse

HOW TO PREP OVER PROCESSED HAIR FOR COLOR

2009-06-08T21:59:00.000-07:00

Kerastase Resistance Forcintense (5 - 15ml ampoules)

Today I had a consultation with a client whom had a color mishap
at another salon. As we were talking, I focused on what she
wanted and offered my help as best as I could. Her hair was over
lightened and she looked like a single process blond, she was not
happy because she lost all of her low lights. We discussed our master
plan to repair her hair color by primarily using low lights in two
different colors. Then she asked an important question. Is my hair
strong enough to handle more chemical? So I explained to her that the
color has no ammonia and a little peroxide, so it does have some
chemical. I also explained there is an important step we will take
to getting her hair ready for the color process and that's by using
Forcintense by Kerastase.

This product is an amazing treatment that I have my clients take home
to use prior to coloring their hair. It almost prolongs the
strength of the hair and provides vitality to the most weakened hair
in 5 applications. Forcintense allows your hair to withstand any trace of
chemical however small it is in your future hair coloring. Hair is
such a delicate thing that it’s important to treat it well. A little
love goes a long way. This product is a truly progressive
reconstruction program. I have seen it increase durability and a
beautiful shine in my client’s hair. I highly recommend this product
and wish you healthy hair and beautiful hair color.

ARE YOU A BALIAGE OR FOIL WOMAN

2009-06-02T21:04:00.000-07:00

I hear this question all the time and it’s a great conversation to have because there is a bit of a controversy as to what is true or false. So what really is the difference? To help describe I have provided two models and colored their hair so you can get an idea of what each looks like. Hair color is a personal treatment that takes research an eye to see what the client sees and an ear to pick up on any details that may help you both get to the color you want.

THE BALIAGE WOMAN

HAIR BY ANTONIO
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Justin-Julius Santos. www.jjsantos.com
MODEL- MIRANDA PIERSON
AGENCY- MAJOR

This woman maybe a brunette who wants high lights for the first time. The gentlest way to approach this is Baliage. It's as if the hair got excited and there was a small explosion of color from the inside out :) One can even say sun kissed. Beware though, some stylists idea of sun kissed is sitting in the middle of the Sahara dessert for weeks! For the blond that does not mind a little depth in the root area, this is also the perfect option. Did you know that you can foil and Baliage at the same time? Honey, stick with me and i’ll take you places! Also it’s a quick pick me up for the natural looking blond. Remember when you first started highlighting and there was always dimension to your color? Well you can count on Baliage to give you the blond with beautiful, fresh tones. Its perfect for short hair. The end result is unbelievable!

THE DISADVANTAGES OF BILAGE

Because its painted some times the hairstylist can not put enough product on the hair and the bleach dries out leaving brassy tones behind. Or the stylist knowing that the bleach may dry because of their lack of proper application may apply high heat. High heat and bleach is like an explosion of the cuticle. Have you seen bangs on a woman that are actually breakage? The stylist may look for short cuts and do chunks that are too big. This end result is very unnatural and that defeats the purpose of a natural looking blond.

THE FOIL WOMAN

HAIR BY ANTONIO
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Justin-Julius Santos. www.jjsantos.com
MODEL- Sarah Anne Stewart
AGENCY- Mc2

This technique is dated but still a must. Putting foils in a skilled hand can create a flawless blond without looking like Auntie Jean in the supermarket with stripes galore. It’s all about the approach. You can use one to five colors in the client’s hair but nothing works if there is no skill or love for them foils. Love the foils child!! Seriously now. The important thing when foiling is understanding the desired effect be it fine or heavy pieces. The age of the client and their natural hair color are so important to keep in mind. The foil woman likes great coverage. She's not the lover of lots of depth in the roots underneath her blond. For example, it is not a good sign when you are looking at a blond from behind the head and you can see depth where the hair paths. With foils, the coverage can be flawless in that area. Also, when it comes to color correcting where highlights are concerned, foils are the best way to go. Baliage in this case is very time consuming and in the wrong hands can get messy or brassy.

Need I remind you that this my opinion? Another plus with foils is it’s a very effective way to apply low lights on a woman who is blond but wants to be richer and darker. Baliage in this case can work but the low light is better protected in the foil and, with the heat from the scalp, it helps with better staining. Hair color is not as thick as bleach so when painting the hair it’s a little drippy. Although you can Baliage low lights.

THE DISADVANTAGE TO FOILING

When we take a section of hair to add color we can only add one color per foil. But with baliage we can alternate colors in one section, which gives the feeling of a gradual pattern of color.

In a nut shell, foiling is an important part of the coloring process and I feel happy to be able to offer my clients the two. I hope this helped you decide what’s right for you.

I wish you to be a happy blond!

CHRIS CARRABBA

2009-05-22T04:41:00.001-07:00

I am lucky to be living in NYC the Mecca of trends for both hair and fashion. Needless to say, my eyes and ears are always open to new twists and flavors that can influence the way I look at hair. I am also lucky to have a great relationship with clients in every industry; as we serve as an inspiration to one another. One of my on-going sources for men's hair inspiration is Chris Carrabba of the Dashboard Confessionals. Every time he sits in my chair it's a great collaboration of ideas for cuts. As he tours the world, he brings to my chair fresh ideas. We play with them; adding the final personal touch to make it his own style. A couple years ago I worked with Chris on his Madison Square Garden concert which was amazing. I look forward to bringing you more images soon from our work together.

AFG

IS THE RAZOR BAD FOR CURLY COLOR TREATED HAIR?

2009-05-17T10:29:00.000-07:00

Well we have all met some one who has had a bad experience with a razor cut. Why is that? Is it because the razor is really that bad for the hair? Or is it because the person behind the tool needs proper training? I guess anyone can do damage even with a butter knife if they use it incorrectly.

From my personal experience, I went from being afraid of the razor to using a feather razor with a guard to a razor without a safety guard. And the journey has been quiet a learning experience especially after being told that it damages the hair. Over the years, I've been taught and mastered the art of razor cutting and want to share with you a few words and images of why and how I razor a client's hair.

My model has curly, color treated hair. Because she prefers to be a brunette with subtle high lights, I decided to place some images with an article to give my readers the full experience of a simple brunette color formula and a razor cut on thick hair with a medium curl.

My model has been a friend as well as a client for seven years from when I first moved to NYC. She has witnessed my growth first hand and we have so much fun when we get together. Our desired look is long layers with removing bulk in the hair. It must be easy to manage especially since the hot summer months are ahead. We also want her to be able to wear her hair curly or straight.

THE COLOR

My model is a natural level 4 (dark brown). I decided to place a few foils at the front of her hair and color everything else at the same time, allowing the highlights and the base color to process at the same time. I choose to use color wear by Alfaparf. It's an amazing product with great shine leaving the hair always feeling and looking so healthy. I first placed Alfaparf bleach in about 5 foils weaving a little thicker than normal. I mixed 1/2 7/3, 1/4 7/0 and 1/4 7/32 with double the amount of peroxide and applied it to the rest of the hair leaving it all on for 25 minutes. At the end of the processing time I applied heat for 5 minutes. After processing I rinsed and did a 7 minute glaze with 1/4 of 7/32 and 3/4 of 10/32 to add an even tone to the highlight.

I followed with a clear Color Wear for an amazing shine.

THE CUT
We decided to save the length on her hair cut and focus on layering and removing unwanted thickness. Starting at the back of the head I gently razored the bulk in the one area where she would miss it the least. This is important because when we look at a woman from the profile sometimes the silhouette is never following the shape of the head, which when done correctly is very feminine.

When using the razor there maybe a part of the section of the hair that I'm holding that may appear to be thinner, so I avoid cutting it. I only thin what needs thinning

As I cut the fringe I pay particular attention to creating softness without over layering the hair line. This area can be finer in texture so my focus is cutting length. Then I will carefully remove bulk where needed. Sometimes I will do the entire hair cut by scissors and do the hair line by razor.

As I go towards layering her hair I keep in mind that I want to stay away from a shape that's triangular which is normally what happens to thick hair just past the shoulder length. Using the razor at this angle allows me to focus on the heavy corners without removing length and without cutting layers at the top too short. Remember; to create height the answer is not to create super short layers on top, it's about giving a well balanced hair cut.

Because I used the razor, I decided not to dry cut her hair after. Sometimes I feel you can over cut the hair so I try to refrain from taking too muck bulk from the hair. Less is more in this case. For styling product, I decided to keep it affordable. I used Kiss My Face Hair Gel and Liquid Mousse. They work well with out being too heavy and smell great. The shine is good and did I mention affordable?
.
Kiss My Face Kmf Upper Managemt Styling Gel 8 oz

Kiss My Face Kmf Hold Up Styling Mousse 8.5 oz

Now here is our finished look. A very simple cut and color that will grow well.

ALL IMAGES BY RILEYANDRILEYPHOTO.COM

A MUST FROM YOUR HAIR STYLIST

2009-05-14T22:00:00.000-07:00

WHEN A HAIR STYLIST USES A BRUSH FULL OF HAIR FROM THE LAST CLIENT ON YOU? ITS LIKE YOU USING A STRANGERS TOOTH BRUSH. YOU DESERVE BETTER, REQUEST ONLY CLEAN BRUSHES!!

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

THINGS YOU DESERVE FROM YOUR HAIR STYLIST

2009-05-10T18:32:00.000-07:00

1) A consultation before your service - This an important time to connect with your stylist and discuss what changes can be made to your existing style or problems you may have had with the previous cut or color. When your hair is wet it’s a little too late.

2) Clean brushes and combs – Yes, it is possible to get this from your stylist. I do it! The worst thing is to see a hair stylist pick up a brush with hair from 17 other people and their dog. I think this is worst than using someone else's tooth brush :)

3) Clean environment - Hell yes!! Stylists get your act together. Get to work early and make sure your salon is to your liking. No one wants to sit in a chair that is covered in hair clippings from previous clients.

4) Great magazines - Buy proper magazines that can inspire and motivate. We can read about which celebrity was found with a crack pipe another time.

5) The latest techniques - There is a world of knowledge out there that can make the biggest difference in your hair. So ladies if you see your hairstylist constantly picking up the thinning shears you know there is a problem.

6) Options for change with every visit - This keeps it fresh and separate the stylists that are bored with their jobs from those who really care about you image

THINGS YOU DO NOT DESERVE

1) Bad breath - Like hello can someone say Altoids!! (smokers beware)

2) Dirty tools - This is enough for you to get up and leave the salon. I would!

3) Hot pants - Child, I’ve seen them in the salon and it is not cute!!

4) Blowing on your neck - Men if you see a hairstylist blowing your neck to remove bits of hair, bitch slap them.

5) Trying to sell products you don't need - I always say to my clients "this is what I use or recommend for your hair type but ultimately it’s up to you to decide."

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

GOING FROM GOLDWELL 4NN TO A LIGHTER COLOR

2009-05-08T14:16:00.000-07:00

READER

Hi Antonio,
I love all of your blogs. When planning my next trip to NY, I would love an appointment. For now, my hair is dark brown and the gray is coming in fast. I am having to touch up every 3 to 4 weeks. My natural color is between a 4 and 5. Recently for lack of trying I have been covering gray with 4NN. For summer, I would love a beautiful chocolate formula that has depth to it. I recognize without seeing my natural color, this is not the perfect situation, but imagine 4NN all over and you've got it. Again, thank you. I know you are terribly busy so any help is SOOOOO appreciated!!!

ANTONIO

Thank you for visiting the blog and for your compliments! It’s my pleasure :) I too think that you should be a Chocolate brown for the summer and here's are three ways to get you there.

YOUR NEXT VISIT

4NN is dark child!!

So let’s move you gradually to a lighter color like 5NN and 20 volume peroxide.

You will still get the gray coverage because of the NN (more pigment) and you will be one shade lighter. I know this does not sound like a lot lighter but this is a subtle approach.

Their are several ways to approach this situation. The first is allowing the hair to fade and continue having root touch ups and no color on the ends, this will allow you to have the lighter color you are dreaming of in the healthiest way. It may take a little longer though.
TIP FOR YOUR STYLIST

The next time you have your color done, have them apply the color on the roots and always leave the hairline for last. The color that is mixed for the hairline will be a little lighter than the color of the rest of the root area. The hair on the hairline is fine and grabs color faster than the rest of the hair, that's why we see some brunettes with a beautiful hair color but the hair line is sometimes super dark. So make the request, you would be so happy with the change.

THE APPLICATION

Now listen carefully! When we say the root I mean the new growth and nothing else. The slightest over lapping of the color on the previously colored hair is a recipe for a disaster. You will be surprised how much of a difference it makes to have your color applied properly. So if you're using 5NN for the root area apply then mix 1/2 5NN and a 1/2 6NN for the hairline with 20 volume. Allow to process for the full time.

THE WASH

Just before washing the color off have the stylist apply handfuls of conditioner to the dry ends of your hair. This will protect the ends of your hair when rinsing by not making it too dark from the root color. No matter how fast they think they can rinse the color it is never fast enough to avoid the ends getting too dark. Then continue the same process till you can see the ends fading enough.

OR

Have the root color done with the same formula as above. While this is processing paint highlights thought your hair to help counteract the darkness on the ends with lightener and 20 volume. We don't want it too light just about 2 shades lighter. Again put conditioner on the ends even over the highlights , wash and towel dry well. To glaze the ends I would use a level 6.0 or 6N demi-permanent color to bring it all together. Most demi-permanent color always grab a little richer (darker) so the level
is safe.

OR

I would color the roots with 5NN then apply conditioner on the ends before rinsing. Follow by a clear demi;permanent color. There are many demi-permanent color lines. Depending on what demi-permanent color line they use, I would use a clear with 20 volume under heat for 15 minutes. This will allow the dark ends to release some of the color. Some of my clear demi-permanent favorites are Clear by Dia Color Loreal,

0 by color wear

and 0,00 by Color Touch.

After rinsing, towel dry and get ready for the final step. Follow by using a level 6 demi-permanent color from roots to ends for 15 minutes. The reason you will use the level 6.0 as the final step is because when you use the clear with heat It may lift a little warm(red), using the 6.0 brings it all together nicely.

I hope this was helpful, please feel free to print it and take it to your hair dresser. He or she will understand it really well.

I wish you great hair,

Antonio

READER FROM MALAYSIA

2009-05-04T19:04:00.000-07:00

I came across your blog online, and since then I've been hooked! I really like your advice and the pictures you put up, and I love the fact that you take your time and patience to explain stuff that the rest of us don't really understand (like baliage- did I spell that right?)

Anyway, here in Malaysia, I've never come across a hairstylist that knows their stuff as well as you do (the one stylist who did a decent job cutting my hair moved away and I haven't been able to find her since...) and if it's alright with you, I'd like to ask your advice. Back when I was young my school never let us have long hair- it had to be at most just touching our collars or the discipline teacher would come at us with a pair of kitchen scissors... you don't want to see what some of us went home with, trust me. So when I left the school, I started growing my hair and have had long hair for years now. I'm getting pretty sick of the romantic long-haired look so I've been thinking of going short, something edgier.

Trouble is, my face is kind of square shaped, with a wide jaw. I'd love a pixie cut but I'm afraid it'd make my face look even wider. And since my hair is a little wavy and very frizzy I'm worried it'll pouf up if I get a bob. I'm of Chinese descent, so I have naturally black hair, but I wouldn't mind dyeing it. (My hair in the second picture is dyed dark brown.) And I'm really low-maintenance so 10 minutes is the most I'd spend on my hair everyday (I oversleep most of the time and end up having to rush off to class). I'm really sorry to be so troublesome, but it'd be great if you could suggest a short style I could get... I'm so clueless at the moment. Thank you so much for your time! I would really appreciate your help, but if you don't have the time, I completely understand. I look forward to seeing more updates on your blog! =)
Lots of love,

ANTONIO

I am honored that you would write to me for advice. I will do my best to help you find the right look for you. Child you are beautiful!! Looking at the images that you sent I was able to see your different hair styles, color and the shape of your face. You were right your face shape will be considered to be on the square side. But let’s talk about your face a bit. Most women will kill to have your jaw line, and your eyes are to die for and of course that skin!! In other words we have an amazing palette to work with and it’s a matter of finding a shape style and color to suit your needs. That's my job and I'm happy to share all. On another note, what’s also cool is we are in different parts of the world and are connected by beauty. I'm actually sitting on my roof top watching the Hudson River and writing to you, so cool!!

Enough about me.

I would recommend the approach to be not about the length but about the shape and mood your stylist creates. It’s about not looking at hair long or short but as an accessory that compliments you. I would suggest you start by searching through past eras for inspiration to put together a mood. With that in mind remember we can’t change the shape of your face but we can change the shape of your hair.

POTENTIAL CUTS
The short cut may be a challenge not because of the shape of your face but because of the texture of your hair and you did mention not wanting to spend too much time styling.

HAIR BY ANTONIO

Long full bangs are also an option but it may make your jaw-line appear to be heavier than it really is, depending on how the bangs are cut.

HAIR BY ANTONIO

ANTONIO'S RECOMMENDATION ,

STEP 1)
I would first discuss the desired lengths which will be great about one and a half inches pass the collar. He or she should use scissors keeping a straight edge as opposed to a razor, leaving the ends textured. Then I would create a very shuttle A-line so that there is the option for movement because of it being shorter in the back and longer in front. Then this also gives a different shape from the profile. Also at this length it’s long enough to not look like an A-line Bob, but it is short enough to give a modern feel and will be very different from your current look in your photos.

STEP 2)
I would then move to the face framing before I cut layers. This is where the "mood" of the cut is created. Looking at the photos you sent me, I would start cutting angles around the face with a very delicate approach. Placing them against the cheek bones. Each layer that I cut framing the cheek bones will be longer than the one before. Doing this creates shorter pieces below the longer pieces which than creates movement and softness. When working with the hair around your jaw-line it’s important to know that your jaw-line is stronger and needs softening as well.

Step 3)
The over all layers could be shorter than usual. IMPORTANT- It’s important to gently remove bulk from this area as well but I would avoid thinning shears!! Removing the right amount of bulk with a razor you can have more movement without depending on too many layers. When cutting your hair I would pay attention to the layers above the ear. These should be short but not too short to avoid it looking too round.

Take these guide lines to your stylist and he or she should be able to use them to create a look for you that is modern and sexy with movement.

I wish you great hair,

Antonio

MY FRIEND, MY CLIENT AND MY HAIR CUT; CHRIS CARRABBA

2009-05-03T09:59:00.001-07:00

MAKING THE RIGHT INVESTMENT IN STYLING TOOLS CAN CHANGE YOUR LIFE.

2009-04-22T19:06:00.000-07:00

I wanted to begin by addressing the one topic that would make the biggest impact in someone's life. After much research with my existing clientele, I decided to focus on what it means to have really useful styling tools and how you can make the right investments without cluttering your cupboard with a ton of unnecessary plastic and metal. I'm here to encourage you to start fresh: take a deep breath, get a loved one to join you on this and dive in to that closet of "hair stuff". Give the things you never use to a loved one or have it recycled. Girl, free up that valuable real estate! Now it's time to decide what stays and what you need to add.

A couple of basic tips for all hair types:

1) Make sure you have a nozzle on your blow dryer.

2) Avoid styling your hair in the bathroom after showering because of the humidity.

3) When choosing round brushes and rollers, remember that the bigger the brush or roller means the less curl you'll end up with. The smaller the brush or roller the more curl you will get.

After this it comes down to specific hair types.

FINE STRAIGHT HAIR

When I do radio shows, the number one concern from my callers is how to add lift to fine straight hair. Yes, we all know that with the right cut, volumizing products or even hair color can give you a little extra volume. But what about a few hot rollers or a little curling iron action? You would be amazed at the difference these two tools can make.

Here are some techniques on how to create longer-lasting lift in your hair. If you look at most magazines you'll see that 80's big hair is out unless it's intentional. So, for a modern appearance with volume, remember the idea is to create lift on the top of the head but not necessarily over the ear. Remember Linda Evans? Who could forget those wings!

After using a volumizing product lean your head forward and pre-dry the root area a little. Then when completed start drying your hair with a round brush, always work with the hair in sections. For lasting volume, I love using Babyliss Pro ceramic hot rollers or the Hot Tools Pro Spring curling irons. Hot rollers are surely not as hot as curling irons so depending on the quality of your hair you should decide which tool is appropriate. Think about the desired look you want to achieve. You generally want to have most of your volume on top. To avoid that springy feel over the ear you may want to refrain from too small rollers over the ear or nape.

Dry a section at a time and place the rollers as you go. While working with sections, be sure to add a softer hair spray to the section before wrapping it around the rollers. If you have extra fine hair you'll want to use less spray. Leave the rollers in for about ten minutes to allow for a good set. Remember you can do this quickly. It does not have to be an all-morning escapade. If you are pressed for time or want a not-too-bouncy feel around the face, use a brush over the ear instead to give a softer feeling with more lift on top from the rollers.

Tip: For a little texture or wave in your hair , towel-dry your hair well then braid it with some Paul Brown Hawaii Hapuna Styling Foam and sleep with it braided. When you wake up, gently un-braid your hair.

ENHANCING CURLY HAIR (FINE OR THICK)

The idea is to work with an already curled head of hair adding more definition and sex appeal to your curl. Air dry or diffuse your hair with appropriate curling product. From my experience, a curl cream combined with an alcohol base product makes for a great curl. And remember; always use a tiny bit of heat protection prior to using any iron. After your hair is dried take sections and re-curl with the iron. This will seal the cuticle of the hair giving shine, definition and allowing the hair to repel moisture and avoid frizzing. And if you see steam coming off of your hair from the heat, don't panic, it's a
good thing. It means the hair is being protected by product from the heat. A great trick is instead of opening the clamp of the iron to curl your hair, try actually wrapping the hair around the barrel of the iron while it's closed. Try it -- you'll love it!

Tip: When diffusing, try not to continuously scrunch your hair, this can help create frizziness or unnecessary lift.

WANT STRAIGHT HAIR THAT CAN LAST A WEEK?

Easy! Apply your favorite smoothing lotion, polishing milk, smoothing balm or straightening silicone. (there are so many names these days!) When blow drying your hair, focus on getting the hair smooth and the ends polished. Remember that you will be using a flatiron to further straighten the hair so don't over-dry the hair. After blow drying apply a little serum to your hair avoiding the root area. IMPORTANT! Section your hair into four sections (ear-to-ear and from the center of the forehead to the back of the head). To iron the back right section, turn your head to the left and work with the lower back sections moving up to the crown of the head. Always work with small sections. Do the same with the left side. Then move to the front sections keeping in mind that you can section off the bangs, leaving them for last.

GREAT TIP

As you flat iron the hair at the top of the head, take sections and wrap them in Velcro rollers. This gives you the look of a great polished head of hair with lift at the top of the head, and every woman looks great with a little body on the top, whether it's curly of
straight.

DO WANT REALLY STRAIGHT HAIR?

2009-04-21T21:13:00.001-07:00

HAIR BY ANTONIO GONZALES
While every girl or guy dreams of achieving their favorite celebrity's hairstyle, we know that most celebrities are blessed with frequent visits from their hairstylists, as well as the luxury and time to play with extensions and wigs. So what can the rest of us do? Here are some techniques that you would enjoy. Darling, we all want sexy hair at any age, don't we?

1) STRAIGHT HAIR

If you follow my advice, you can achieve straight, flawless and shiny hair. Start by being generous with the right product. Follow by blow-drying very thin sections. The number one mistake is doing a quick blow dry with big sections and hoping that the flat iron will do all the work.

With that approach, what ends up happening is that the hair will always have a little swollen appearance, and the ends will never be perfect. I know that's a lot, but to achieve that perfect straight hair you said that you would try, so stop whining :).

Now apply a heat protection product and section your hair. Start working with half-inch thin sections.

As we know, we're not supposed to leave the flat iron on the hair for too long. This is where I'll have to momentarily step out of my "healthy hairdressers box" and suggest that you slowly run the iron along the hair shaft. Did I say slowly? Count to 20. Now remember, if you do as directed, it's going to look great, depending on how healthy your hair is - the healthier the hair, the better the result.

I wish you straight hair!

Afg

WHAT'S NEW IN NYC

2009-04-21T20:30:00.000-07:00

My Friend and client, Chris Miles, just started his company Jupiter's. This is NYC's first and only motorcycle rental, offering rentals of the latest BMWs and Harley's. Jupiter's mission is to provide an affordable, accessible and easy alternative to owning a motorcycle in NYC. If you are interested in learning more about Chris and his business visit jupitersnyc.com or contact him directly at chris@jupitersnyc.com.

Jupiter's Motorcycle Rental
718 788-2585
Skype: Jupiter's Motorcycle Rental

Thanks Chris!!

LET'S TALK COLOR TOUCH BY WELLA

2009-04-21T19:04:00.000-07:00

READER

Hi, Antonio,

I just learned about you through an article you did for About.com. How nice of you to share so much good advice with ordinary people!

Could you please answer a question about Wella's Color Touch for me? Since reading your recommendation for this product, I've decided to try it for my red hair which is beginning to turn white around the face. I already use a mixture of Wella's Color Charm for the roots, and around my face. I'd like to use the Color Touch to blend in my ends and to add shine. I don't like to run the permanent color through the length of my hair. Until I started researching the product, I didn't realize that a developer was required with the Color Touch, and I'm not sure which strength to use. Also, wouldn't Color Touch be considered more of a demi-permanent color than semi-permanent because of this? Any advice that you can give me would be most appreciated.

ANTONIO

Thanks so much for writing! You are right Wella Color Touch is a demi-permanent color. It comes in two levels of peroxide, 1.9% which is approximately a 7 volume and 4% which is approximately a 12 volume. The reason for the different strengths is for controlling deposit and for grey blending. I like using 1.9 for that deep rich deposit and the 4% for the client that may have a few grey hairs to help the color penetrate better. The reds in this line are beautiful, hold well and shine for weeks. I agree with not putting permanent color on the ends. I used to work with a Wella educator, Virginia Reardon, and she always said "Only use permanent color for grey coverage and lift." When you need deposit stick with a deposit only color, color touch.

With Color Touch, when choosing your color, always choose a shade lighter than your desired shade, because it always deposits a shade darker. Also you can apply the root color and then 10 or 15 minutes later add the end color for the remainder of the time. You be the judge where the amount of time is concerned. Why don't you ask your stylist to try using Koleston Perfect by Wella on your roots? That way you could match the color on the ends to what is on the roots. Think about it.

AFG

MY HAIR COLOR AND THE SWIMMING POOL

2009-04-20T07:27:00.000-07:00

Top of the mornin' to you Antonio!

Love the comb over illustrations!!! Just too funny!!! - especially knowing that there are a few men out there still working it!

Hey, thought you could help a damsel in distress - I just joined the gym and enrolled in a swim class. My concerns are that my hair will dry up and break away! - as I color my hair (every 3 weeks with Permanent Wella), and in addition, have fragile, thin hair due to anti-estrogen meds (cancer survivor). What's worse, is that when styling my hair, I inevitably have to use flat iron and curling iron to get a sassy final smooth look - otherwise my hair is complete frizz - you've advised great products that help with healthy styling of hair, but it's the swimming that I am afraid will just drive my hair to disaster! Antonio, what RX can you recommend to keep my hair healthy and strong while taking up swimming?

Thanks in advance for your help with this question, as I really want to swim at least 2 times a week, but very worried my hair will become more weakened and damaged.

Hi my love, great to see you at the opening of the new salon. Is it not gorgeous!! Any hoo!! Let’s get down to business. This is clearly a challenge that most women and men will be facing this summer.

PROTECTING YOUR HAIR WHEN SWIMMING IN THE POOL

1) Of course a swimming cap is the first thing you should invest in. We have come a long way since the old caps that are covered with Rhine stones or some floral mishap.
There are more modern sleek caps to assist to in gliding through the water like a dolphin.

2) Heavy conditioners are the next step. Super Rich by Bumble and Bumble,

Bumble and Bumble Super Rich Conditioner
the Leave-In conditioner from Paul Mitchell

Paul Mitchell The Conditioner
and all soft conditioner from Redken are great products to use.

Redken All soft Shampoo 33 oz & Conditioner 33 oz set
But remember, apply it to towel dry hair. If you apply the conditioner when the hair is dry the hair may over absorb the product. We want the hair to be protected even before you go in to the pool. When the hair is wet the porosity is even and the conditioner absorbs evenly giving great protection.
3) The final suggestion is the Aqua Gele from Kerastase. This is hard core protection and should be used only if you mean business! It also has UV protection so you are in good hands even in the sun. It should be applied on towel dried hair only. Think of your hair in a wet suit, sexy!!

Kerastase Soleil Gelee Aqua-Proof Optimum swim protection Wet Look Protective Care UV, SEA, POOL 125 ml 4.8 oz.

Okay my love I hope this was helpful. I wish you great swimming and fab hair!!

GET THE BEST SHINE FOR YOUR HAIR

2009-04-17T19:45:00.000-07:00

PHOTO BY rileyandrileyphoto.com
Barex Gloss Hairspray
There are so many shine products on the market, and sadly what most of them deliver is an oil slick. But I recently came across a duo that will rock your world. These two babies are made by Barex Italiana. The first is Gloss Hairspray. It's great for shine without heaviness and is safe for your color. It also protects against hot tools like flat irons and curling irons. A little of this product on wet or dry hair will add shine to any matte finish. My other discovery is Cristalli Liquidi. It also protects color, hydrates and is great for volume, and we know that shine and volume is a hard combination to find in most products. I am slowly working my way through the line, so as I find more favorites I will let you know.

http://www.barex.it/

Stay tuned..

SHEAR GENIUS! SAYS GOTHAM MAGAZINE

2009-04-17T10:49:00.001-07:00

NEED HELP CHOOSING THE RIGHT COLOR?

2009-04-14T19:34:00.000-07:00

READER

Hi Antonio!!

I saw your blog and was reading through a lot of your posts, and you really have a gift with hair!

: ) It is so rare to see a good stylist now a days! I have been to possibly 10 different salons, most of which had me leaving with bad hair and tears!

I recently lost my job as a Graphics Designer in January and it has been tough. To make matters worse, my hair is awful!! I last had my hair done before I was let go from my job. I even gave a picture to the stylist of how I wanted my hair done, but it did not come out the way I thought it would. So with losing my job and having bad hair....well, it's terrible!! I have never really been able to find a good color or style.

And that's where you come in Antonio!!! : ) I trust your opinion! And would love to have your advice as to what I can do with my hair.

I am of half Asian decent, so I have very straight, thin hair. I like the thicker hair look, but many of the products I have tried have not worked for me. Can you suggest one?

Can you suggest what color or if I should get highlights for my hair? I would like to go lighter, but have no idea what color. I usually tan nicely in the summer. (in the pictures I am pretty fair skinned because it is still somewhat cold outside)

Any help or information would be a HUGE help!!!

You are a God-send!!!
Thanks so much!!!

ANTONIO

Thanks for writing. You look just like my niece who happens to be half Asian as well as beautiful!! But that child has hair for an army!!

Okay let’s address this situation. First, I am sorry to hear about your bad experiences. There are many talented stylists out there but sadly you will meet a few color blind weed whackers before you actually find the right match. Fine hair is actually a challenge I know very well. I deal
with it on most days. In your case let’s start with the basics.

LAYERING THE RIGHT PRODUCTS

The first product in the line up is Lotion Densitive GL. This leave-in spray treatment has seriously changed the way hair feels. Use it sparingly because a little goes a very long way. It’s important to hydrate even fine hair. Now let’s be honest. This product is not wonderful just because it is by Kerastase. It truly is fabulous. We all know that Kerastase has some products I will not touch with a 10 foot pole. (did someone say Chroma Reflect?) Any hoo, by itself this spray strengthens fine hair and at the same time it is a great styling tool.

The second is the Fiber Lift by Shu Uemura. This product is easily the best volumizing product on the market, I would bet my dog Snoopy on it!! No seriously, the shine, the lift, the bounce, the life changing experience!! Okay let me not get too carried away, but you get the picture. I would also use very little of this product. Let’s combine these two products by layering them applying the Kerastase spray first then the Fiber Lift second. Shazam!

STYLING TIP

The trick is to pre-dry the root area of your hair before using a brush, this will give you lift from the start. Round brushes and Velcro rollers may be an option as well. Have you tried rollers yet?
If you need any of these products or tools go to the Eva Scrivo Salon website and they will ship everything to you. www.evascrivo.com

YOUR NEW HAIR COLOR

As you know, I could make a color recommendation but its up to the stylist you use to execute the final product. Your stylist will also know the existing color or colors on your hair now and how to work with them.

I would use the Special Blonds by Wella Koleston Perfect. The colors come in many beautiful shades and lift well especially fine hair. They can also be left in the hair for longer than 45 minutes. My favorite shades are 12/1 and 12/11 mixed with double 40 volume peroxide. These two shades control brassy tones, leaving behind a gorgeous blond. A great low light to accompany this blond shade is 7/0 and 7/3 by Wella Color Touch with 1.9 peroxide.

http://www.wellaprofessionals.co.uk/hairdresser/products/color/koleston_perfect/coloring_with_kp/salon_consultation_tools.jsp

I hope this was helpful and if you have any more questions please feel free to ask.

AFG

BACK BY POPULAR DEMAND!!

2009-04-13T19:13:00.001-07:00

THE HISTORY OF THE COMB-OVER

Most of you may not know the real history of the comb-over -- yes, there is such a thing. We spend so much time avoiding the comb-over lovers that we neglect the fact that all styles (even bad ones) were born and. After much research, I am here to educate you:

The word comb-over comes from the French word cuovere, meaning to cover with a veil. This hair style can actually be traced back to 1774 and Alexander XVI of France, who was known for his keen sense of style, which brought him oodles of attention from all (even French poodles) and he was known for his creative ways with a wig. My research also revealed that he was most of all a trend-setter -- you better believe it, honey, Madonna was not the first to set a trend.

One day, Alexander (I feel as if he is a personal friend) decided to create a new trend, and for this he will be remembered forever. Picture this: FRANCE, Versailles, 1773. It was a warm, sweaty summer morning, and after doing his usual morning chores, which included fluffing his favorite wigs, Alexander had a vision. He saw a world free of those heavy, suffocating wigs, which most of the time had the smell of old, wet unmentionables. Knowing that it would be the most difficult of his trends to start, he brought the idea first to his closest friend, Aspirer Chapeau, who created and maintained all of his wigs. Aspirer at first was taken back by the absurd request of the king, because not only was it an embarrassment to be seen without one’s great hair, but it was a mark of the upper crust to have tresses from – and as big as -- the heavens. A.C. ( feel as if I know him so well) listened to his king rant about how freeing it would be to have one’s own hair liberated. There was only one problem. The king was badly balding and also refused to have a single hair cut. But A.C. had a plan. He confided in his friend, the famous architect Etienne-Louis Boullee, who constructed some of the masterpieces of Paris. After endless drawings and live models, the two conspirators came up with a design, and – pouf -- the COMB-OVER was born.

A.C. started flipping and fluffing Alexander’s few strands of hair with such speed and talent (limp wrists come in handy) and presented a masterpiece of Le Cuovere. Alexander was thrilled to bits and decided to wear his new do to the grand ball that evening. Well, as the story goes,as soon as he stepped in to the club, he was quickly stoned to death and that was that.

So the next time you see a comb-over, just appreciate the history and limp wrists that went in to creating a trend that has and will survive the test of time.

This is clearly all made up just for fun, what the heck!

some of my favorite comb-over sites

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHm_1116f_Q

http://www.slickville.com/sections/combover/jim/jim_menu.html

http://isitnormal.com/story/663/

MY NEW ARTICLE ON ABOUT.COM

2009-04-13T07:42:00.000-07:00

I love writing and I especially love when my articles reach a larger audience. Here is my article on About.com

http://beauty.about.com/od/haircuts/a/haircut_prices.htm

HAIR FOR THE APRIL SHOWERS

2009-04-11T05:16:00.000-07:00

Most women are afraid to wear their hair slicked back off their face. Why? Well, it could be they are self-conscious about the shape of their face, the size of their ears, or the fact that the style brings out their features. The thing is, we are usually our worst critic, and we are the first to point out the imperfection that someone else told us we had – and that means even that mean girl in third grade. Women, wake up and embrace your god-given beauty. Show the world you love your self and will do anything to look great in the rain. Now that we’ve had the pep talk, here are your styling tips.

TOWEL DRIED AND OFF THE FACE

If you are secure enough to wear this style, I recommend using a gel combined with an anti-frizzing product. This way you have the hold and no-frizzing. Here are two ways to wear this style. The first is with a side part -- this way you don't look as if you’re on water skis and holding on for dear life. If you have curly hair, you can put the rest of the hair in a tight bun. If you have straight hair, you can let it fall in a nice clean tail, providing you have the right combination of product. If you are talented, why not braid the tail?

WEARING IT DOWN WITH THICK CURLY HAIR

You must be saying, is he crazy? Well, I have been called many things and crazy is one for sure! This technique is going to require a combination of three or more products. So if you don't want to invest, you can't put it to the test. Most women and men with curly hair use more than two products anyway. If it’s one of those not-so-cold days, this is a great technique. Here goes ...

After emerging gracefully from the shower with pointed toes (a little drama always helps) towel dry hair lightly. Add a leave-in conditioner from roots to ends. Then apply your product for curly hair -- it maybe in a spray or cream. Apply it in the palm of your hands and work through your hands like hand cream. Apply it in small sections from roots to ends while twisting. What we are trying to do is calm any frizzing that may occur. Then, while hair is still damp, spray with some finishing hair spray. My favorite is Mode from Bumble and Bumble. It’s a soft-hold hair spray that smells great and works on wet or dry hair. This will be the final application of product, sealing the cuticle and allowing your hair to dry in peace without any hair-raising performances.

FOR THE DIE-HARDS AND THEIR HOT TOOLS

CURLY HAIR

So darling, you still want to use your curling iron – that’s O.K., I'll survive. Diffuse your curly hair as usual, using all of your favorite products. Then choose a curling iron that is the size of the curl you have. In other words, if you have small curls don't use a large curling iron. Take the curling iron and start curling your hair vertically, not horizontally. This will allow the curl to softly cascade down the side of your face rather than bouncing off your head like a curl on crack! You’re NOT blowing it straight. The idea is to have curly hair in the rain that's sealed with heat so it lasts longer.

STRAIGHT HAIR

You are lucky, because straight hair is easier to work with. You can blow dry with a flat brush with tight bristles like the Mason Pearson to ensure flatness. Then use a flat iron and wear it down. Or, after blow drying, put it in a ponytail and flat iron the tail only.

I wish you hair that looks cute in the rain.

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

FOR THE MAN

2009-04-07T20:50:00.000-07:00

MEN’S PRODUCT SEARCH

As we look for new hair care products there are many factors that play into our decision on which ones to use. We might choose a product because a friend recommended it, or we like the packaging, the smell or its price. My job is to research and share my honest opinions with you on anything that might be good or bad about the various products I have tried. Recently at another attempt to grow my hair, I have been using a few products to help me achieve the look I want. From professional products to not so professional products, I have used them all and found many to be very helpful. When selecting a product for my hair, my main concerns are smell, hold and no flakes. Here are some suggestions for you to consider.

COCKTAILING FOR A MAN’S LONGER HAIR STYLES

I have lots of fine wavy hair that behaves in the winter but then goes crazy in the summer. Can you relate? I recommend that any man growing his hair should always use a combination of products as one is not enough! I have been using two products, a gel for hold, shine and definition. With my gel I add a tiny bit of a light paste (not wax) to help break down the alcohol content in the gel and give it a more matt finish so I don't have to have a super wet look. There will be no slick rick doggie fresh yall!! (remember that song?)

You would think this should be easy to find, right? Wrong! You would be amazed at how many bad gels are on the market. After using trying different gels, I narrowed down the selection to my favorite three gels on the market and decided to post the results.

GEL #1

The first is the Design Gel by Alfaparf . This is a product I've written about before. I love the hold. The shine is amazing and they have other great products in the line to support this one. This gel is a very strong product in terms of hold. The only draw back is that after recently being re-packaged, the gel gets a little gummy if the container is left open. Fortunately, it does not get gummy enough to stop using.

GEL #2

The second is the Wella Color Preserve Gel which has amazing hold, high shine and is good for color treated hair which is a plus. This gel is the product for the man that wants his hair to stay put during the best and the worst of times. The packaging is okay. Oh and yes there were a mild amount of flakes :(

GEL #3

PHOTO BY RILEYANDRILEYPHOTO.COM

This gel is from a product line that I wrote about recently, Kiss My Face. It is a gel with natural ingredients, great hold and nice packaging. I was pleasantly surprised by the performance of this product. The hold and shine were good, the smell was decent and there were no flakes. I recommend using it for blow drying as well. All you need is a little on the root and there you have it,lift! Would you believe it was the cheapest of all! I do wish it was a little stronger hold but you know what? I can't have it all!!

And now in the world of gels, I am a connoisseur and still working towards finding the ultimate product to rock your world.

I wish you the perfect product guys.

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

THE OPENING OF THE NEW SALON

2009-03-30T20:48:00.001-07:00

ANTONIO IS BACK ON THE WEST SIDE!

2009-03-27T10:46:00.000-07:00

Eva Scrivo Salon will be officially opening our new salon on March the
31st in the Meat Packing District. The new salon is located at 407
West 13th St between Washington St and 9th Ave on the second floor.
Our new salon offers full hair services, manicures, pedicures and
makeup. We have 15 stations with our signature tall mirrors against
the wall and the big windows facing south on West 13th Street give
enough natural light to brighten the color stations which is ideal for
the perfect hair color results. Apart from the gorgeous set up, there
is a private color room for our male clients (as per my request) and a
lounge for private parties at Eva’s request. When you call for an appointment with me you will be directed to the
West Side Salon only.

Since you're in my hood, why not take advantage of the opportunity to
have a Tuna Tar Tar to die for? Frederick's, located at 637 Hudson
Street (at the corner of Horatio), is a cobble stone’s throw away from
the new salon and happens to be one of my favorite places in the Meat
Packing District for lunch and dinner. I love the comfortable feeling
I get every time I go there to eat, from the big deep chairs, to the
very attentive service. And I have to mention Frederick (if I don't,
I'm not Antonio) NICE!! As for my clients, I will be personally
asking Frederick for a menu to keep in the salon and we will be more
than happy to order and collect your lunch for you. :)

http://www.fredericksnyc.com/downtown/

As many of my clients know, I have an weakness for eye wear and have
collected over a dozen from my favorite eye glass shop, Artsee. Men
are not as fortunate as women when it comes to accessories, so I have
discovered that eye wear can certainly transform any look I am trying
to create. Whenever I travel internationally, eye wear is the one
thing I look for and I always return to Artsee. The service is great
and the style is timeless. The best part is Artsee is located at 863
Washington Street, around the corner from the new salon.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY :http://www.rileyandrileyphoto.com/

ARTSEE (212) 414-0900
www.artseeeyewear.com

AFG

GUEST WRITER SLK ON MENS HAIR REMOVAL

2009-03-19T16:17:00.000-07:00

CONTINUED-

Plucking unwanted hair seems to me to be the most dreadful method of hair removal. The procedure is slow, painful and the hairs grow back quickly. This procedure works best on small areas where there are a few fine hairs. The right tweezers and a magnifying mirror are the key tools to successfully tweezing your unwanted hair. Given how course my hair is, I have found that plucking tends to lead to ingrown hairs, although many of my friends have used this method for years and are fine with it.

The same can be true for waxing. I was informed by one of my beauty consultants that waxing the hair tends to distort the hair follicle and makes ingrown hairs more likely. Unlike shaving, where the treatment of the skin before you shave is paramount, with waxing, the treatment of the skin after you wax is most important. Make sure your salon uses a calming soothing lotion after treatment. You should also avoid working out at the gym, hot showers, sweating, saunas and steam rooms for at least 24 hours as these can lead to skin irritation. I have found that in order to have a successful waxing, the hair needs to be between a quarter to a half inch long so there will be a short period between waxing when the unwanted hair will be noticeable.

My aunt began an electrolysis business many years ago and given our Armenian heritage she has had a steady stream of clients. While this process is long and painful, it is the only hair removal process which I have found to be proven guaranteed successful at permanent hair removal. Now that I live in New York, I use Lucy Peters at 150 East 58th Street. Their phone number is 212-486-9740. They have a skilled team of professionals that make the experience as pleasant as possible considering you are having pins placed into your skin and an electric current is killing the hair follicle. Besides the pain, the challenge is that the hair is removed one hair shaft at a time. Also the process only works on active hairs which account for about 30 percent of your hair at any given time. Inactive hairs can not be treated until they become active. Since it takes your hair follicles about three years to cycle from active to inactive, the process to remove all of the hair takes a long period of time. Unlike some salons, Lucy Peters has perfected their method and does not waste your time and money treating inactive hairs.

Laser hair removal has not been around for very long so it is difficult to determine if the removal of unwanted hair is permanent. I have used the Intense Pulsed Light treatment at Chelsea Eye & Cosmetic Surgery (157 West 19th Street, 212-727-3717) and have found the effects to be positive. While much of the hair in the treated area was removed and has not grown back, the hairs that remain appear to be finer and less noticeable. Laser hair removal works best on dark hair with fair skin so you can not have a sun tan during your treatments. Also, you must avoid the sun on the treated area as your skin is more sensitive to sun burn after treatment. Like waxing, you should avoid working out at the gym, hot showers, sweating, saunas and steam rooms for at least 24 hours after treatment. The biggest challenge with this procedure is that I found it to be painful and due to the amount of hair I wanted removed it has taken several visits to achieve noticeable results. I have had my unwanted hair treated six times and still require more treatments before all of the hair will be gone. I also have tried other laser hair removal procedures at other facilities and the hair grew back so you want to make sure that your choice of treatment centers has a history of success.

Good luck fellow sufferers!!

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

READER FROM AUSTRALIA

2009-03-13T21:22:00.000-07:00

READER

Hi Antonio

I just read your whole blog. It was amazing. It got me very intrigued because you seem to know what you're doing. I live in Sydney and it's very hard to get a good stylist over here unless you've been recommended to them by someone else and I'm only 18, too young to make those kinds of connections. I find myself dreading going in for haircuts because it's always the same old routine and I'm currently going through some issues that have left me dying for a change, which I know will never happen. I was hoping you could help me. I have curly hair, it's currently a bit above bra strap level as after
that length it seems to just stop growing. It's very thin (I feel like I'm balding) at the top, very voluminous towards the bottom. As a result of curly hair, no matter how many treatments or products i use (and i use a decent amount), it is always dry. The hairdresser can never seem to recommend any styles for me that don’t end up looking just like my hair always used to, only a lot shorter and bigger (I don't think big hair is sexy). Since my hair is too thin i can't get bangs, and if i were to cut it short it would be very round which would not suit my face shape either. I'm torn, desperately wanting a change but not being able to ever achieve it. Do you have any suggestions?

Many Thanks,

Z.

AFG

Thank you for your email. It’s no fun dreading a visit to a hair stylist. Now, let’s get down to business. Since I don't know what your face shape is, I will answer generally. You are right to say that bangs may not be the answer for you, but there is a solution. Of course the texture of your hair does affect the cut, so let’s address that first.

TREATMENTS FOR HAIR TEXTURE
I recommend trying Voile Nuit; it's an overnight treatment by Kerastase. So instead of washing it off, you eave it on all night. My clients are loving it. It’s not cheap but worth the investment. (Remember, leave-in conditioners are made to be left on the
scalp. I hear people say they sometimes leave their daily conditioners in. I do not recommend doing this, because it may cause a light scalp reaction.) Intense treatments like this one can really make your hair feel and look great.

HELP FOR THINNING HAIR

I am asked this question everyday. And I always point to two approaches: biotin and folic acid I have read so many articles on these two treatments, and my clients have been trying them as well. Here are two links that will give you answers to any questions you may have.

Biotin (Vitamin H)

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.microscopy.fsu.edu/vitamins/images/biotin.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.microscopy.fsu.edu/vitamins/pages/biotin.html&usg=__EUjojXpL6D1fd7TZprzb8-IW9cA=&h=368&w=508&sz=84&hl=en&start=9&tbnid=nHomj3dPAF_M5M:&tbnh=95&tbnw=131&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbiotin%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG

Folic Acid (Folate, Vitamin B-9)

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://micro.magnet.fsu.edu/vitamins/images/folicacid.jpg&imgrefurl=http://micro.magnet.fsu.edu/vitamins/pages/folicacid.html&usg=__1_W79ALw5EZNs978coU6i4fxwWE=&h=368&w=508&sz=113&hl=en&start=23&tbnid=GJLL2eMtkY2g6M:&tbnh=95&tbnw=131&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dfolic%2Bacid%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D18%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26start%3D18

HOW TO APPROACH THE CUT
I know it’s hard to find the right stylist. I would recommend looking for other people with curly hair and asking where they get their hair cut. To get the right cut for you, you have to take a few things into consideration. First of all, the hair at the top is finer and not as heavy as the lower length of your hair. This means that the top will have to be cut and styled differently from the lower half. But if you wet your hair the texture appears similar all over, and this, my friend, is the first pothole on the way to a hair crash. If your stylist is cutting away as if there is no difference in texture, you will get a shape that is, at best, unintentional.

Cutting your hair dry may be the answer. This way you can actually see how and where the hair is falling, which will prevent the stylist from cutting too much from an area where you may need length and weight. For example, if you are aiming for longer
hair with long layers, I would separate the lower and top section. I would start by cutting the length and layers of the lower section first, because it’s thicker and heavier. Then I would drop the top section, keeping in mind that I cannot connect the top and lower sections evenly. When layering the top I will keep the layers longer than the bottom part, so that when you wash and style with product (product is a must), it appears to be uniform. Remember, because your hair is fine on top, it sometimes frizzier and lighter in weight. The goal is to have your hair respond in a uniform manner. I use this technique on women who have curlier hair at the top and straighter hair at the bottom. It works.

CHOOSING A STYLE
I would recommend starting with a long hair cut with layers, keeping it simple. It’s important to find a stylist who will listen and be sensitive to your needs -- they do exist. When you feel comfortable with your new stylist, then you can approach a new do. At least you will have enough confidence in your stylist to move forward.

APPLYING PRODUCT
When applying products, the two areas (lower and upper) will have to be treated differently as well. You may want to use a heavier product on the lower half, since it’s voluminous. I recommend using Curl Conscious Curl Crème by Bumble and Bumble on the lower part. It’s heavy enough and is very hydrating. Then as you approach the top, you can combine two products, to get the proper yin and yang. I would start by applying a tiny amount of the Curl Conscious, then layer in a fair amount of the
Thickening Spray by Bumble and Bumble. The cream will hydrate the Curl, while the spray (because of its alcohol content) will dilute the cream enough, adding definition to your curl. Do not be concerned about the alcohol drying your hair even more. The hair will have been properly conditioned with your new treatment and the Curl Cream will dilute the alcohol. The cream and alcohol combo works well on many people, from my experience. You can air dry or lightly diffuse.

I know you know your hair better than anyone by now, so with the right cut and product I have faith that you will be well equipped to handle your locks.

I hope this was helpful and I look forward to more questions from you.

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

WITH MEN IN MIND

2009-03-12T20:22:00.001-07:00

Given my rigorous workout routine, I have been thinking about what is the best way to care for my skin after a workout. I could never carry my entire inventory of skin and hair care products to the gym. Talk about a workout. I began to think about the essential products I need to help preserve my appearance after my workout. Recently, I have been introduced to the Kiss My Face line of skin care products and I have become quite impressed. I was so impressed that I decided to ask the folks at Kiss My Face about their opinions on the essential products for men at the gym. Here is what they had to say.

You work out, you eat healthy so now it is time to treat your skin the same way… at home and at the gym. The average male uses up to seven personal care products for grooming. The skin, which is the largest organ in the human body, absorbs 60 percent of everything you put on it. While everyone is focused on strengthening their muscles, it is just as important to strengthen your skin by using clean, natural products. We make a line of products designed for men. Here are the essentials.

When shaving, remember that the closest shaves are due to well moisturized skin. Kiss My Face Moisture Shaves do not contain alcohol as most foam shaving creams do. Our product contains a combination of shea butter and olive oil that preps the skin before the razor hits it leaving you with a clean soft close shave. Kiss My Face also makes a Goldenseal antiseptic to cleans the skin and provide disinfectant in case the razor slips as is often the case when shaving away from home.

http://www.kissmyfacewebstore.com/products/body-care/moisture-shaves

When cleansing the skin, it is important to remember that a man’s skin is thicker than a woman’s skin. Men, therefore, require a product that exfoliates and can reach dirt and oils trapped under facial hair. Kiss My Face Exfoliating Face Wash cleans the skin, penetrating through sweat, dirt and oils. The fruit acids in this product leave you with clean polished skin and the anti aging properties fight wrinkles and prevent your skin from looking dull.

http://www.kissmyfacewebstore.com/detail/KMF+1200040

Everyone needs a moisturizer with SPF and men are no exception to this. The Kiss My Face Face Factor SPF 15 contains green tea extract and alpha lipoic acid. These key ingredients protect the skin and slow the aging process.

http://www.kissmyfacewebstore.com/products/body-care/natural-moisturizers

For the occasional blemish, the Kiss My Face Botanical Acne Gel with tea tree oil and aloe clears the blemish and gives a healthy tingle to the skin.

http://www.kissmyfacewebstore.com/products/beauty-face-care/organic-face-care

I am currently working with the Kiss My Face haircare on myself and on clients, let's see how it stands the AFG test.

Kisses to all!!

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

QUESTION FROM MY READER

2009-03-04T20:24:00.000-08:00

READER;

Oh my goodness. I don't even know where to start ....
Early last year, I was one of the first people in my city to get the new "bob". So new, that I actually had to take pics of the cut to my stylist. fast forward - I saw everyone w/the same cut 4months later. I RAN to my stylist, and asked for the "Agness" cut. My hair has sense grown out to what I started with...the Bob. (Lord, help me.) I have naturally curly, thick hair, blow it out everyday, and I'm sick sick
SICK of this do. It has become my "don't".

Please help me as to what to do. I have had long hair my whole life until last year. I'm not familiar w/this "growing-out" phase (and I am loathing it.). Please tell me what options I have to be able to stay stylish and grow this out w/out looking like a soccor mom.

Thank you so so much!!

(in the Heart of Dixie)

ANTONIO;

I feel your pain. But don’t fear – help is here.

First, your instincts are right on. Thick and curly can easily become overwhelming, especially at this length. So as you move forward, you will need to apply all the tricks you have, including a variety of products and techniques. But it all begins with a good cut, right?

THE RIGHT CUT FOR YOUR CURLY HAIR

So working with the bob you have, the first step is;

1) Keep the length a little A-line, shorter in the back and longer in the front. Not too much longer, but just enough so that when you wear your hair curly the shape is a little flattering and not, as Simon says, MUMSY.

2) I would recommend a cut that's more square shape -- think of a shag, but not as short or choppy. This will remove any triangular shape that's in the hair when worn curly. Tell the stylist to cut the layers from the bottom up rather than the top of the head (he or she will understand what I mean).

3) What is the hair like around your face? If it's shorter, I would start working toward a longer shape, maybe a swooping bang. If it's longer, then maybe shorten it a bit, just so you can have the feeling of a little change in your style.

4) When styling, try not to scrunch, which gives unnecessary volume (and creates a whole different style). Try applying 2 to 3 of your favorite curly hair products by twisting the curls in place. So remember: twist, don’t squeeze.

5) Then diffuse your hair, allowing the hair to sit in place. DO NOT play with the hair while diffusing; that can cause frizzing, depending on the texture of you curl.

6) If you want to take this one step further, use a curling iron and take random pieces of hair and curl your hair. IMPORTANT! Do not hold the iron horizontally, or you may end up looking like ANNIE. Hold the iron vertically; this has a spiraling effect, which leave the hair against the face rather than bouncing off the head.

The question is, do you want longer hair again? The previous steps will allow you to
have a more modern look at this length and also give you the option to grow your hair out again Now if you must blow dry, have a look at this article I wrote for about.com; you may find it helpful.

http://beauty.about.com/od/haircuts/a/grow-out-a-bob.htm

Let me know if you have any more questions or concerns.

I wish you freedom from the bob!!

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Q&A ON JUARA PRODUCTS

2009-03-04T20:13:00.000-08:00

I sat down with co-founder Yoshiko Roth-Hidalgo to learn more about JUARA after doing my own research.

HELLO DARLING!

1. How long has the company been around?

We officially incorporated in the summer of 2004 and introduced the products to the market in the spring of 2005. My business partners include Metta Murdaya, Jill Sung, Tami Chuang and myself. We launched JUARA with three only three products, one of which became an instant hit, our Candle nut Body Crème. It was very exciting!

2. What inspired you to create a product with such exotic ingredients?

We draw our inspiration from the traditional Indonesian herbal medicine, called “Jamu” and from ancient Indonesian beauty rituals. Metta Murdaya, one of my business partners, is a native of Indonesia, so she spent her whole life traveling back and forth between the United States and her home country. Since the herbal tradition of “Jamu” is still very much alive and relevant today, she literally grew up with the health and beauty traditions of Indonesia. Before the arrival of Western medicine in Indonesia, people used to rely exclusively on the healing properties of the plants and herbs that local nature offered. When the secret health and beauty recipes were discovered by Western scientists, it became evident that these plants and botanicals have real, tangible benefits for our health. Turmeric for example is one of the most important healing plants in traditional Indonesian “Jamu”. This has captured the excitement of Western scientists because of its amazing antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that are very much relevant today, especially as we are so exposed to environmental and life style stress. The traditional Indonesian Jamu books and spa books are full of unique recipes for beauty and health. We at JUARA feel compelled to tell this story and instill this passion in other people through our products.

3. Are the products made in the USA?

Our products are made in the USA, in fact very close to our headquarters. We manufacture in New Jersey, so just a short ride away from our Manhattan office. This makes quality control much easier.

4. I have tried many skincare lines over the years. While some products have few natural ingredients, there are those that are 100% natural and some fall somewhere in between. Which category does your product fall in and what percent of your ingredients are natural?

JUARA is really the best of both worlds. For our products we use high concentrations of natural ingredients at levels that have been proven beneficial for the skin. However, we also believe that non-natural ingredients play an important and beneficial role in skincare products. I consider JUARA the best of both worlds. For example, some non-natural ingredients enhance the effectiveness or stability of the natural ingredients. Some non-natural ingredients are beneficial for the skin in their own right. We exclude non-natural ingredients from our products when there is a compelling reason to do so and if there are better, safer, gentler alternatives available. For example, we don’t use sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate in any of our cleansing products, because it has been shown to irritate skin and cause allergic reactions, but also because these days, there are new plant-derived cleansing agents that are much safer, much gentler and just as effective. We don’t use artificial colorants, no mineral oil and almost all of our products at this point are paraben-free. Also we are about 75% or more botanical based, not counting water content in the products, so it’s actually quite high.

5. Okay let's talk product. I tried your Turmeric mask and really loved it. I loved the tightening feeling and the texture my skin was after 10 minutes. What makes it feel so great and what are the healing properties of Turmeric?

Our Turmeric Mask, which we will be renaming Turmeric Antioxidant Radiance Mask because of its benefits of boosting skin radiance, is a combination of clay and Turmeric. The nice thing about
it is the fact that it has all the purifying and pore-minimizing benefits of a clay mask, but it won’t dry and crack on your skin, so it feels very comfortable and cooling on the skin as you leave it on.
Any skin type can use it! Turmeric is an amazing antioxidant and anti-inflammatory that helps protect skin from free radicals and environmental aggression and also has the ability to reverse signs of sun damage and help even out your skin tone. Our skin tone can become uneven over time due to sun exposure, acne scars or hormonal changes. Turmeric helps brighten the skin and diminish discoloration. In fact, an ancient but very simple trick of women in Indonesia is to mix some Turmeric powder with water and apply it to areas where their skin tone was uneven. Our mask is of course very convenient to use. Two to three times a week in the evening, you just put it directly on cleansed skin. You can either leave it on for 20 minutes while you relax, or you can even leave it on overnight.

6. Coming from Trinidad, I am familiar with ingredients like Tamarind but it is the first time I have seen it in skincare. What made you use Tamarind?

Tamarind plays a very important role in Indonesian “Jamu”, so it made perfect sense to incorporate it in JUARA products. In Indonesia, different parts of Tamarind are used for different purposes or ailments. The leaves of Tamarind are used for sprains and swelling, while the pulp is typically mixed in health drinks for taste and its blood-cleansing benefits. One typical Jamu concoction is Kunyit Asam, where Turmeric is mixed with Tamarind and honey or palm sugar to create a very tasty tonic that helps detoxify your system and calm your stomach. In our Tamarind Tea Hydrating Toner we use the extract of Tamarind Seeds, which has been shown to attract moisture to the skin (it’s a humectant), plump up little dry lines and smoothes the skin for a more radiant, supple complexion. For Indonesian women, supple, well-hydrated skin is beautiful skin. Our Tamarind Tea Hydrating Toner visibly and noticeably boosts the hydration level of
your skin.

7. I also wanted to ask you about the coffee body scrub. This is the first time I have ever used a product like this. It is not only a great morning boost but it feels incredible. What other aspects of this product can you share with me?

Our coffee scrub is my favorite shower treat! It’s just so energizing and fun and leaves the skin feeling incredibly smooth. The combination of dark-roasted ground Indonesian coffee beans and crushed walnuts provides amazing exfoliating benefits, plus the natural caffeine helps boost circulation and diminish the appearance of cellulite. The scrub is also rich in Rice Bran Oil, which women in Asia use to maintain skin’s youthful elasticity. What is so beautiful about this formulation is that it is moisturizing like an oil-scrub but rinses clean like a cleansing scrub. Therefore, your bathtub won’t get greasy and slippery. It’s a cleansing oil-scrub – very unique!

8. Where can you find your product line?

JUARA is primarily available at luxury apothecaries and high-end spas across the USA, Canada and now Indonesia and South Korea. Here in New York City, you can find JUARA at New London Pharmacy, Apthorp Pharmacy, Silk Day Spa and Woodley & Bunny. In Los Angeles, you can find us at Studio at Fred Segal in Santa Monica. We also ship nationwide from our online boutique at www.juaraskincare.com

9. In a nut shell, how would you describe your products and why are they so different?

We are a socially-conscious women-owned business with a genuine passion for healthy skin and the ancient Indonesian tradition of beauty and health. With JUARA, we bring this ancient tradition to the contemporary world because we want to share these amazing beauty secrets with people. Each of our products was inspired by an Indonesian beauty or health ritual and focuses on unique active botanicals that have been essential in the past but are also relevant to us today. The products are crafted with care, deliver real results and make you feel good instantly, be it through an uplifting scent or amazing texture. Once somebody tries or Candlenut Body Crème, our Coffee Scrub or Tamarind Tea Hydrating Toner, they are hooked!

http://www.juaraskincare.com/

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

GUEST WRITER SLK ON MENS HAIR REMOVAL

2009-03-04T20:11:00.000-08:00

The In’s and Out’s of Home Hair Removal PART-1

I was meeting a friend for dinner one night and he arrived at the restaurant extremely late. Considering I have always been the fashionably late one in my set, when someone is later than me, it tends to raise an eyebrow. After sincere apologies, he eased himself into his chair very slowly. I had to ask what was wrong and he confided in me that the reason he was late was due to an unfortunate incident with Nair and parts of his body where Nair should never ever touch. Being of Armenian decent, I have been tortured with the issue of unwanted hair removal for more years than I care to acknowledge and I believe I have tried ever method imaginable to obtain smooth skin. Now that I write for Antonio’s blog and it is all about hair and hair care, I thought I would share with you some experiences with regard to what to do when you want to remove unwanted hair.

While this is a challenge that many do not have to live with, for those of us who have spent hours annually grappling with the removal of unwanted hair the tasks can at times seem daunting. It often seems that as soon as you successfully remove it, the hair seems to be growing back. There are various methods of removing unwanted hair including, home remedies such as cutting, clipping, shaving, Nair and plucking. Salon remedies include waxing, electrolysis and laser hair removal. Sadly, I have tried them all and offer my take on each so you can benefit from my years of torture. In this article, I will address home remedies and in a subsequent article I will address salon remedies.

You can cut unwanted hair, although it will obviously grow back. Revlon makes manicure scissors that are small enough and sharp enough to cut the hair very close to the skin so it appears to be gone. Cutting away unwanted hair works well if you have a few fine stray hairs, especially around the eyes. Shaving these hairs is difficult and can make them grow back coarser. Waxing and plucking can sometimes cause irritation and is more prone to ingrown hairs. The challenge with cutting the hair is that it grows back faster than waxing or plucking and you must be very careful not to cut the skin.

Clipping is a method used more by men than women to remove unwanted hair on the legs, arms and chest. When using clippers, it is important to make sure that you cover the entire area and do not miss spots. I recommend either Oster or Remington hair clippers as they seem to be the most durable. A few years ago, Norelco launched the Body Groomer which is the hairy man’s new best friend. This product was designed to be used on a man’s private parts so it gives a close shave without irritating sensitive areas. Had my friend used the Body Groomer on his private parts, he would have been on time for dinner. The challenge is that the blade tends to get dull after a few years but the price is so reasonable that replacement is not a problem.

Shaving is the most popular option for men to remove unwanted facial hair and for women to treat unwanted hair on their legs. The key to a good shave is how you prep the skin prior to shaving. Moisture is very important which is why I always shave after I shower and my face is still wet. I also recommend that before you apply your shaving cream you apply a very thin layer of hair conditioner. Any brand will do so use the cheapest you can find or one you purchased for your hair and found that it was not working for you. The conditioner will soften the hair and allow the blade to easily cut them giving you a closer shave with less irritation.

Nair works very well on legs for women and several years ago they began making a product specifically for men. After applying a thin layer of Nair to the unwanted hair and waiting ten to twelve minutes, use a wash cloth and wipe away the unwanted hair. A word of caution is to not use the Nair which works in four minutes. Those extra six to eight minutes can seem like a long time but in reality are your best friend as the chemicals in the four minute Nair are very harsh and can easily burn your skin. And take advice from my friend, whatever you do, NEVER use Nair on or near your private parts.

Plucking unwanted hair seems to me to be the most dreadful method of hair removal. The procedure is slow, painful and the hairs grow back quickly. This procedure works best on small areas where there are a few fine hairs. The right tweezers and a magnifying mirror are the key tools to successfully tweezing your unwanted hair. Given how course my hair is, I have found that plucking tends to lead to ingrown hairs, although many of my friends have used this method for years and are fine with it.

SLK

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

HAIR COLOR FOR MEN

2009-03-03T13:08:00.000-08:00

Hair color for men has been around for a very long time. Some men color their hair for fashion to add a creative twist to their image through rich dark colors and some men add blond highlights to brighten their image. There is a WRONG way and a RIGHT way for a man to wear a colored crown.

The rules for becoming a blond.

1) Men never and I repeat, NEVER get your hair foiled! I recommend getting your hair painted (baliaged) It is a far more natural approach. It does not leave Tiger stripes behind and will give the stylist far more control to create a look that's convincing to your friends.

2) Please don't buy bleach from the beauty supply and ask your girlfriend to apply it to save money. If you want to go blond, get a professional to do it and I promise you will be happier with the results.

3) If you have natural black hair color, it maybe best to pass on the highlights. No one with black hair has blond highlights. You can go for a more natural approach using hair color in foils, this takes a hair dresser that understands hair color so you don't end up with gold/orange highlights as a result.

4) Stay away from tones that are too golden. Instead, try tones with more ash or beige as these tones tend to be more masculine.

5) DO NOT allow any one to pull your hair through a bleach cap. You know the old fashioned caps with the old knitting needles or picks? Bad idea!! That technique is as old ad the hills and you look like a Chia pet on crack.

The rules for covering grey hair.

1) Avoid coloring your hair with Golden browns alone. If you have a few grey hairs, use a quarter of your formula with a gold brown and three quarters of your formula with an ash or cool brown. This will lend for a more natural, masculine look.

2) For men with a lot more grey hair who wish to cover it, use half of your formula with a neutral brown and half with a golden brown. This will give you a cool brown tone while still providing great coverage of the grey.

3) Do not color your hair yourself with color from the drug store and think that because you left the side burns grey you are fooling anyone. Leave the hair coloring to the professionals. Honey, we know box color when we see it and so do your friends.

4) I generally recommend men to embrace the aging process and their grey hairs. There are times when some men need to sport a younger appearance in the competitive corporate world or in the even more competitive dating scene A little help from hair color can often assist in getting you the job you want or the date you are chasing. Whatever you do, try to make the color look as natural as possible. Only the comb over is worse than a mature man walking around with hair that is obviously colored with shoe polish.

If you have any questions on men's hair color feel free to write and I would be happy to share all I know.

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

MEN AND THEIR TAILS

2009-03-03T12:46:00.000-08:00

As my readers must know by now, I get inspiration for my articles from any and everywhere. The ideas just keep flowing from clients and from observing the public at large. I was recently at the gym and saw a personal trainer working with his client. They both looked happy with themselves, then I zeroed in on what was supposed to be a PONYTAIL.

So what’s the scoop with men and ponytails? And why do so many men still feel it’s a hair fashion that must live on? Don't get me wrong. There are many, many men with long hair that’s just damn sexy, but that’s another article. After my research, I have broken down this backward-looking fashion into three periods.

THE 80s
This is the GMT. (No, not Greenwich mean time) It’s the Gay Man’s Tail.

The men in this group are generally in their mid-30s to late 40s and are caught in a tailspin of 80s fashion accented by a PT (ponytail). These men are generally blessed with a full head of hair, so they stretch that baby till "thy kingdom come" into a tight low tail that's never too long. This usually conjures up a box shaped
suit from the 80s (padded shoulders) with a tight black shirt underneath and pointed shoes. Sometimes, there is over groomed facial hair and eyebrows -- and a look of too much confidence on their faces. Have you seen one recently? I have!

THE 60s AND 70s

Call it the HT -- for Hippie Tail.

Picture this: heterosexual man with hair past the shoulders in a chewed elastic band that has not been brushed since the flower-power days. They are generally in their 50s, wearing a long sleeved shirt tucked into their jeans. The jeans never fit right, and then they top it off with a pair of sneakers – ones that are a little weather beaten from all those protest marches.

ANY DECADE

The Po-Tail

This is just plain old wrong!! It’s when the pony tail is holding on for dear life. And there’s nothing on top -- and by nothing, I mean NO HAIR! If you don’t see anything from the front, what’s the point? Is it for the people standing in line behind you?

If you have a special man in your life who has been cursed by the PT, I recommend grabbing a pair of scissors and relieving him of that blood-sucking extension at the back of his head. He’ll thank you, and so will I.

Men, I wish you great hair!

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

HOW TO LOVE YOUR LOCKS AT THE BEACH

2009-02-26T19:28:00.000-08:00

On a recent trip to Barbados I could not help but notice how women (tourists) handle their hair. Ladies, I was in shock! Poor hair, treated like the badly behaved stepchild. Pulling, tugging and just plain old lack of love. Don’t worry, though. Here is everything you need to know to make sure your luscious locks survive that next trip to the beach.

O.K., there you are in paradise, and you are working it on the beach. You exit the water and in slow motion you reach for your beach bag. NOOOOOOOO, stop. Here's how it’s done.

FIRST, A BEACH BAG CHECK LIST

Large wide-tooth comb (any will do).

Hair mask in travel-size container (try Kerastase Age Recharge).

Leave-in conditioner spray in travel-size bottle (Matrix Biolage Sunsorials Protective Hair or Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Moisture Mist).

Water in travel-size spray bottle.

Fabric ponytail holders (no rubber or metal threads).

Fabric hair bands (go to Eva Scrivo Salon’s Web site -- love them!!!)

Seashells for the ends of your hair (just kidding).

HOW TO CODDLE YOUR HAIR

Begin by misting your hair with plain water, followed with the leave-in conditioner. Comb your hair, starting with the ends and slowly working your way up to the roots. After combing, add more leave-in conditioner.

At this point, if you are going to leave the beach and do a little shopping, you can slip on a sexy hair band or slick your hair and put it in a high or low ponytail. If your hair needs a little more product for control, feel free to add a little of your favorite potion. But if you want to just lie on that towel, add a little hair mask for added protection and continue baking.

Now for hard-core sun sizzlers (like me), boy do I have the product for you. It’s Soleil Gelee Aqua-Proof Optimum. It’s a wet suit for the hair, by Kerastase, and it works. It’s best applied to damp hair. You can sun, swim and know that your hair is getting state-of-the-art protection from UV rays. The product looks and feels like a hair gel and can actually be used as one.

So here it is ladies and some gentlemen, your hair care routine for the beach.

I wish you healthy beach hair!!

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

SUMMER IN THE CITY

2009-02-19T20:52:00.000-08:00

SUMMER IN THE CITY

Scenario: February is here, spring is right around the corner, and your thoughts are turning to your summer hair.

Over the last several years, you may have been caught in a cycle of ever-brighter hair color. But with the latest blond trends focusing on the darker side of the palette, is it time to yell “Stop” and rethink your color? So how do you decide what color works best for you?

SHADES OF BLOND

As a longtime blond, you may be the perfect candidate for a new sexy blond shade that's still vibrant with depth. As you move forward in the coming season, though, please manage your expectations. Perhaps you are used to being a little too blond. Try to keep an open mind about the new palette of colors. Sit back and imagine yourself with a healthy blond mane full of depth and contrast. First, you need to decide if you are one of two blonds. Are you the Cognac-lover, someone who goes for warm tones with descriptions like light golden blond or dark golden blond? Or are you the cool, neutral type, who gravitates to more beige tones, like wheat, ice and ash? These and many other words (think J Crew catalog, or paint chips) are helpful in communicating to your stylist what you want. It does not matter which one of these blonds you are; what does matter is that you know that either tone can be achieved, with depth, contrast and richness.

HOW DO I CREATE DEPTH?

1) To add depth to a blond client, I first choose a lowlight that has tones of the chosen highlight. For example, if I am working with a beige blond, I will use a lowlight with cooler tones, not a golden brown.

2) I decide on the technique to be used for my overall look. Lowlights do not need to be wide stripes or chunks of color. They can be applied naturally by using foils or even by painting (baliage). I like working with demi-permanent colors; they last, they are ammonia-free, and they leave the hair shinier than lowlights with permanent color.

3) Don’t forget glazes, which are a big part of achieving the final look. They are also chosen with the client’s tone in mind. They are ammonia-free, are simply applied at the shampoo bowl, and are left on for 5 to 15 minutes.

BLONDS BEWARE

1) Find a hair stylist who can really converse with you in detail about being a pretty and healthy blond.

2) Remember, heat is not the safest way to achieve lift for blond hair. It’s drying and can cause breakage. But a little heat near the end of your processing time is fine.

3) Make sure you don’t get over processed. When mixing bleach or lighteners, we measure the peroxide by volume; we use 10, 20, 30 or 40 volume. Ten and 20 volumes are what we generally use. Remember bleach will lift; all it needs is time. Ask your colorist what he or she is using. If you have fine hair, 30 or 40 volume may be too strong.

4) Always use hair masks once a week, and always use products to protect your hair from the heat of the dryer. Summer is hard enough on the hair, so do what you can year-round to protect that investment.

Any questions feel free to post, I will love to answer them.

I wish you beautiful blond hair!

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

REVIEW OF HAIR BY ANTONIO 2008

2009-02-17T20:31:00.000-08:00

A LOOK AT HAIR BY ANTONIO 2008

2009-02-05T08:10:00.001-08:00

ALL ABOUT BANGS

2009-02-03T19:32:00.000-08:00

READER

Hello--I hope it is alright to email you directly with my question. I am turning 30 in a few weeks and want a new look to make me feel great on the big day. I have long dark brown hair with lots of layers to bring out the natural curl. I do not want to change the total length of my hair, but I am ready for a change. I want something a little hipper while still looking put together. My biggest debate is whether or not to cut bangs. I have a pretty face, but also have a strong nose shape which I would not like to bring too much attention to. I have a fairly small forehead and a roundish face.

If you have any tips, I would greatly appreciate it. My hairstylist does a great job, but she does not have the best sense of what cuts flatter different faces. I usually have to spell out to her what I want and this time I am not so sure.

AFG

Great question. The way you described yourself, I feel like I know you. I have many pretty Indian clients with similar features. The trick is to cut the bangs off to the side opening up the forehead so it does not totally crop off the lower part of the face (making it appear to be heavier). The bangs must fall at a certain point on the face to be flattering, so it can soften the nose but be manageable. If the bangs are too long, the look will be boring and will make the face feel heavier. If they are too short, bangs can bring attention to your nose and make it appear more prevalent on your face. The right cut will address your concerns and as well as any roundness in your face.

READER

Thanks so much for your response! I think I'm going to take the plunge. I really appreciate your generosity. It's so rare for someone to be so genuinely helpful.

AFG

I wish you great bangs!

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

THE MOUSTACHE FROM AN ERA GONE BY

2009-01-30T20:38:00.000-08:00

In a world where men are often limited at fashion trends and hair styles, those we are able to sport should be worn and executed well. It’s obvious that the moustache is back and hotter than ever. Pay attention guys. This is not just any moustache! What we see on the runways are sleek, tapered, gentlemanly moustaches, reminiscent of a romantic era gone by.

I was so inspired by the new look that I decided I would create one of my own. Being a hairstylist one would think it would be easy, right? Sorry to disappoint you but I had a little trouble on my own trying to identify the right shape and size for me. After doing a little research I found the most inspiration came from the men of the pre-war era. As I slowly became comfortable with my new facial hair I was further inspired by other trends of that era and decided that I needed a new hair cut that would compliment my new facial hair. The next day, while sitting in the chair at the salon and discussing my new look with my hair stylist and friend Kaz Suzuki, I realized how lucky I was to be able to explain exactly what I wanted. This prompted me to reach out to you men and give you a break down on how to ask your stylist for this cut and some styling tips.

Here are the steps you should follow on getting the right hair cut to compliment your new moustache. The idea is to be able to work with your natural hair type utilizing hair product making it your best friend. When getting this cut, ask your hairstylist to avoid using hair clippers when cutting the sides. Clippers will make the edges too structured. Although it is a sleek approach you still need to have movement in the connection to the sides and the top. I recommend using scissors for the sides first, cutting the top second and leaving the front for last. The idea is to have a slight disconnect from the top of the hair to the front and that's why I will cut the front last without perfectly blending the two areas together.

THINGS TO ASK YOUR STYLIST

1) Ask them to cut with where you part your hair in mind. If you have a side part, cut your hair with a side part.
2) Save thinning shears for last, you don't want to make the hair too wispy. You will need the bulk for styling purposes.
3) Watch out for cow licks at the crown of the head. Because the top and front is long there will need to be a connection to the back. If you cut the back of the crown too short cowlicks may keep popping up spoiling the look at that back
4) Tell your stylist to keep in mind that you would like to wear your hair dry. Although it is a sleek look, the option to wear it dry by slightly changing the product you use will be amazing.

PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS

I would recommend using a gel and a cream combined. The gel alone will be too hard. Also, when the gel dries, if you (or someone else) decide to run your fingers through your hair for a softer look, the dried gel may get flaky and too full. The cream alone is too soft and will not be strong enough to hold your hair. One product really supports the other. For the men who like pomades or pastes, the Shu Uemura Shape paste is the best.

STYLING TIPS

Depending on the thickness of your hair, you can use your fingers alone to style it. I like using a comb first to get the product through evenly. Then I run my fingers through to give my hair a softer look. Remember the more natural oils in your hair, the better this style will look and hold.

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

MY NEW ARTICLE ON ABOUT.COM ON HAIRPIECES

2009-01-29T04:49:00.001-08:00

HAIR BY ANTONIO

2009-01-28T10:44:00.001-08:00

MY COMBO OF THE WEEK

2009-01-27T20:56:00.001-08:00

Download the original attachment

My hair care combo of the week

It seems like some people still feel that it may be against the product laws to combine two totally different products. There are times when I am on a shoot and I might have forgotten one of my favorite products. I never worry as I simply run to the nearest Drug store or Ricky's and either look for my product of choice or get creative. I find myself even mixing all natural products with products that are, well, just not natural (to think!) Trust me when I say your hair will not explode! First, some rules on mixing products.

1) It is totally fine to mix your favorite drugstore find with a salon professional product. No one will know :)

2) When cocktailing products, instead of mixing two products at the same time in your hands, layer the products on your hair.

3) It will be a case of trial and error for different products and hair types. So alternate the product you apply first when layering till you feel it works for your hair and the style you are trying to create.

4) When cocktailing for curly hair its okay to use up to five products. This is especially true for frizzy curly hair.

5) Some mousses and creams don't mix well so be aware!

6) If you mix products in your hands and the resulting solution is clumpy, chances are it is going to be the same way in your hair.

Here are two products that by themselves are amazing but when you combine them the results are fabulicious.

The first product in the orange packaging is called Style For You by Alfaparf. This product was created along with a hair academy in London called Mahogany which was started in Australia and now travels the world teaching their style of cutting and coloring. I actually attended a week of classes at their school in London (while the tube was on strike) and it was amazing. Enough about me! Style For You by itself it is an amazing smoothing lotion. Do I love the packaging? Let’s not go there. I do like the product.

The second product in the line up is Lotion Densitive GL. This leave in spray treatment has seriously changed the way hair feels. Now let’s be honest. This product is not wonderful just because it is by Kerastase. It truly is fabulous. We all know that Kerastase has some products I will not touch with a 10 foot pole (did someone say Chroma Reflect?) Any hoo, by itself this spray strengthens fine hair and at the same time it is a great styling tool.

Let’s combine these two products by layering them applying the Kerastase spray first then the smoothing lotion second.
Shazam!!!

Here we now have a product that will make the thickest hair silky and shiny or curly hair with a little frizz just defined and soft. And it smells like a million dollars. I have fine curly hair and the combo actually works really well. It leaves my hair defined with out being crunchy or oily.

Photography- www.rileyandrileyphoto.com

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

GREAT SHOPPING IN MY HOOD

2009-01-27T20:47:00.001-08:00

Since I started my blog I have been talking about one of my favorite New York boutiques, Raffaele e Paola. I love to shop in general but I truly love walking into a store where I feel the merchandise has been well displayed and serious thought has been put into the quality and style by the buyer. This store has quickly become one of my favorite Chelsea boutiques. I always feel very comfortable recommending Raffaele e Paola to my clients because, I not only love the owner Abby, I also feel strongly about her style and the level of service she provides. Not only is she a beauty, she has great taste. When I first went to her website I really liked that Abby gave great thought to what New Yorkers would like to own instead of me having to shop at some of the big stores where everything is mass purchased. Stop by and see for yourself. Ask for Abby and tell her that Antonio sent you. Enjoy!!

270 W. 19TH STREET, NEW YORK, NY, 10011 - 212 633 0828
http://www.raffaeleepaola.com/

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A $40, $60 AND A $160 HAIR CUT IN MANHATTAN

2009-01-22T05:54:00.000-08:00

ANTONIO AND HIS AMAZING ASSISTANT RIESTA

Talent comes from within. Some of us have to work very hard for it and some times it comes naturally. When hairstylists begin their career we all start with different educational backgrounds and work for different levels of salons. While the ultimate goal for some of us is to do our best, for others it is simply to do hair. I don't think there is a wrong way. It is simply whatever makes you happy and satisfies your clients. In New York, here are three price points that are common for hair cuts for men and women. Which one are you?

The $40 Hair Cut

This price point can easily be a great or bad experience compared to the other more expensive hair cuts. Of course, this depends on the hairstylist and the client’s expectations. You can easily find someone who has raw talent at this price point to understand what you want, to a point. It is doubtful that you will find a full service salon with a variety of products and glamorous surroundings. It is a real struggle for many stylists in this price point. I know first hand what it is like for these stylists as this was my price point at one time in my early career, So I'm not blowing hot air, get it! The stylist at this price point feels a certain level of confidence based on how long they have been cutting hair, however, continuing education is the real challenge for this stylist. Most salons that offer the $40 hair cut don't have the financial resources to send every stylist to continuing education. They may send the stylist that has been with them the longest and as a result maybe the busiest person as the salon sees education as an investment. If you are not the stylist sent by the salon, how much are you willing to spend on your own education when classes can run from $500 a day to $5,000 for three days? Although you may be getting your hair cut at a reasonable price point, your stylist is probably not going to be well versed in the latest cutting methods, tools and hair styles. At the end of the day it really depends on the client’s expectations and the level of service they are accustomed to receiving. Some people are easier to please than others and some may want more of a salon experience.

The $60 Hair Cut

Depending on your budget, you may think $60 is expensive. Yes, there are talented hair stylists at this price point (I used to be one of them). Everyone has to start somewhere, right! :) One of the biggest challenges with the $60 hair cut is the amount of time spent on your hair. Most salons at this price point are booking half hour to 45 minute appointments at the most. The salon can not afford to give up a chair for much longer so the stylists are trained to work fast. Even the work of a very talented stylist suffers by such time constraints. The hair cut is rushed and the stylist does not have ample time for cross checking and dry cutting, which is when the real transformation happens.

The other challenge with hair cuts at the $60 price point is that salons can't afford to pay for very much education and training for their stylists. Consequently, the stylists are forced to pay for their own training, if they think they need it, which many stylists do not. Even those stylists eager to learn are probably not able to afford the expense of adequate training. This lack of education typically means your stylist is probably not keeping up with hair trends and the latest styling techniques.

Oh and by the way, don't expect a little cup of green tea in some fine china with a great fashion magazine and an environment that's says, ooh, I feel special.

The $160 Hair Cut

While we all know expensive is not always better, no salon in Manhattan would be bold enough to charge this amount and give bad haircuts. They would not be able to survive. Any decent salon in this price point knows that to keep up with the latest in this competitive City, their stylists must be well trained in the latest techniques and styling trends. Most stylists in salons at this price point are encouraged to travel all over the world for education with companies like Vidal Sasson or Mahogany (just to name a few). In addition, most stylists in this price point will take the time to sit with you before each cut and discuss the look you are trying to achieve and will have the skill set to make recommendations on the various looks that will be best suited to your facial structure. They will also discuss with you how they envision the process unfolding to arrive at the end result. You can expect your hair to be washed before with a relaxing head massage and after your cut, as a bonus, professional hair care and styling products are used and sold in these salons. The teas are to die for and the bathrooms are not reminiscent of McDonalds in Times Square. If your salon does not offer you these amenities, my advice to you, darling, is to find a salon that will treat you like the celebrity you are.

Antonio Gonzales

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

QUESTION FROM MY READER

2009-01-19T14:05:00.000-08:00

READER-
Dear Antonio,

Hello. I read your blog Comesse. You seem to be very knowledgeable. I
was hoping you could help me by answering my questions.

READER-
I would like to use Sebastian cellophane's shade red on a
level 7 or 8 redhead. She has a few gray hairs. My question is will
the color look like red highlights or could it turn the gray hairs
pink?

ME-
Yes, it would look like pink highlights. The reds never look as
good as when you use the brunettes in Cellophane's.

READER-
Also, would I be better off to use a red orange or different shade to
get the grays to appear more like highlights?

ME-
Actually I would recommend using the Brunette shades. It will look
more convincing. The reds and golds will make the hair look as if it is a bad henna color
job.

READER-
What color could I use that will look good on the gray and not make
the hair too orange or yellow?

ME-
I would probably use the color Deep mixed with the golden or the Deep
mixed with the golden blond. This way you have the depth to give some
blending but you will still have the sparkle you want.

You can even experiment with the Brunettes by adding a little red red,
let me know how it turns out.

READER-
Thank you for your time,

ME-
You are so welcome.

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

HAIR COLOR QUESTION FROM SPAIN

2009-01-17T16:07:00.000-08:00

Hi Antonio,

Looking for information on the Internet, I came across your blog which I find very interesting and helpful. I decided to write you asking for some recommendations on hair color. I hope this will not take too much of your time and want to thank you in advance for reading this message.

READER

I have a lot of grey hair and I wear a color mix of light blond and mid blond. My original hair color is dark brown. I would like to change to a natural hair color like Elumen from Goldwell but I heard it doesn’t cover grey hair.

ME

After my research I found the same to be true. My guess is if you use this product the coverage will not be adequate and you will end up with more of an uneven stained effect in the root area. When it comes to covering grey hair and wanting to avoid permanent color in the area of the roots there are products on the market that can help but it all depends on the amount of grey hair and how coarse your hair is.

READER

I would be ready to change to a mid blond or light brown but without reddish tones on the roots. Do you think Elumen enable me to achieve this result?

ME

I feel your pain when it comes to avoiding red tones in your base/root color when covering grey hair. No the Elumen will not work. On my clients with dark roots with some grays I approach it in several ways. One way is to use Goldwell 10A with a squirt of Pmix and 10 volume for 10 minutes. I then rinse the product out, dry the hair and highlight with lightener. If needed, I also place low lights in with an ammonia free color and end with a glaze (Colorance by Golldwell) of my choice.

READER

Perhaps with Elumen the grey hairs would look like some highlights?

ME

Nope.

READER

Also I heard that I should try combining Topchic on the roots and Elumen on the length. Would this work? The stylists here do not use these brands so I cannot ask them for for their opinion. Could you please give me some tips on the color mix?

ME

Can you find out which color they use for permanent color and demi-permanent color? I would recommend getting this info from about two salons and then I can help you formulate the exact colors you want.

Thank you

Kind regards from Spain (Barcelona)

I look forward to getting the questions answered so I can help some more.

AFG

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

MENS HEALTH Q&A WITH MARC HAMET

2009-01-16T08:19:00.000-08:00

While working I meet all types of people in the most interesting professions. Recently I was introduce to Marc Hamet and we started a conversation about my health and me standing all day long. My question was on men having Varicose veins and how they can be treated. Seeing that this is marc's speciality I decided to ask some questions:

In general, your muscles working push the blood from your legs to your heart. The veins have a series of valves built in to make sure the blood only flows in one direction. If the valves do not work correctly (become incompetent), the blood will flow with gravity in the wrong direction down the legs (venous insufficiency). This puts an abnormal pressure on the veins, causing them to dilate and become convoluted. Blood can leak out of the veins, causing discoloration of the skin. Not only is this unsightly, but the pooling of blood in the feet and ankles can cause bleeding, skin ulcers and infection (wet gangrene). Venous insufficiency is a real medical condition, thus most insurance companies will pay for treatments.

ME -
What is the difference between varicose veins, and spider telangectasias?

MARC-
Spider Telangectasias are the fine "spider veins" that you see just under the skin surface. They are usually within the skin itself and are red to purple in color. When you press on them, they will blanch, but quickly refill. They are very common, even though they may be a sign of a more significant problem, they don't always represent a real disease process. Varicose veins are larger and are typically a sign of an underlying problem such as venous insufficiency or poor vein valve function. They are under the skin and cannot be easily blanched. When a person has varicose veins, they typically have some spider veins too.

ME-
What is the youngest age a man can start getting them?

MARC-
These vein problems are more common in women than men and are more common in older individuals. You can develop spider veins at almost any age. Varicose veins would be unusual in people less than 20, but may be present due to some underlying medical conditions. In general, they are associated with weight gain, high blood pressure, trauma, pregnancy, and straining or spending long hours on your feet. Genetics play a major factor in development. In healthy young men, they are most commonly seen in wrestlers and weight lifters (due to strain) and soccer players (due to leg trauma). Occupations which require heavy lifting or long periods of standing/sitting have an increased incidence (ex, movers, hair stylists, truck drivers, airline attendants).

ME-
Is it common for men get veins removed from their legs?

MARC-
In the past the only options were supportive stockings and surgery. We can now offer the laser or RF treatment with is much more comfortable than surgery with a faster recovery. If either a man or a woman has a significant problem, they should have treatment as needed.

ME-
Can your diet affect this problem?

MARC-
Diet can affect the problem in that obesity and high blood pressure are contributing factors. No specific foods can cause or reduce the problem of unsightly veins.

ME-
Is the recovery time different for men and women?

MARC- Recovery from treatment is the same for men or women. If you have an endovenous treatment (laser or RF), the recovery period is approximately 2 hours of bed rest after the procedure, wearing a compression stocking for 1 week after the procedure, and ½ hour/day of walking. If the treatment is successful, you should expect swelling and bruising of the inner thigh, followed by a pulling sensation between the groin and the inner knee.

ME-
How long is the recovery time?

MARC-
The bruising is worst the first week after the procedure. It goes away during the second week. The pulling sensation can stay for weeks to years. The vein remains in the leg as a scar. That is what causes the pulling sensation, however, it is not typically painful.

ME- Is it not recommended for certain people or age groups?

MARC-The endovenous treatment is not recommended for individuals with significant disease of the arteries or with an active infection. Also, the person should be well evaluated to verify the presence of an underlying treatable condition and to exclude other conditions which may cause similar presentation (ex. some heart conditions).

ME-
Is there anything that can be done in terms of creams or injections, etc to reduce the appearance of veins?

There are no known creams to help. Makeup may cover up veins, but the veins are still there. Sclerotherapy involves injecting clotting agents directly into the veins. If there is no significant underlying condition, this can be very effective in treating the veins. External laser treatment can also be used to treat spider veins effectively – if there is no underlying condition. If an underlying condition exists – it must be treated before you will get lasting results.

ME-
Is there a makeup that can be used to cover them up?

MARC-
You can try any cover up or foundation, as needed.

ME-
Can anything be done to prevent unsightly veins before they appear.

MARC- The only things you can do to try to prevent this from happening is to keep your weight and blood pressure in a normal range. Regular, non-straining exercise (walking/swimming) may help. Avoidance of long periods of standing or sitting may help.

ME-
Do laser treatments work? I have heard that these have been used to remove unsightly veins from the face around the nose.

MARC-
External laser treatment can help for spider veins and hemangiomas. On the face, Laser treatments and peels may help with other conditions which cause prominent tiny veins such as rosacea. Internal laser treatments are necessary to destroy underlying abnormal veins in the legs in patients with venous insufficiency.

So guys their you have it. I wish you great.... legs?

AFG

GUEST WRITER MARC HAMET
MHamet@stamhealth.org

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

PRODUCTS THEY SHOULD IMPROVE

2009-01-15T10:18:00.000-08:00

In the world of cosmetics, there seem to be a never ending supply of new products. It seems like just when you are confident you have mastered the perfect hair care regime, all of a sudden there is a whole new product line for a hair ailment you never realized you had. I often write about the products I like or the ones I don’t like. Well how about the products that I like but still wish they would improve. We all have products that we like but always wonder what if they would apply that extra ingredient that would make the world a better place for us all?

Here are some of those products that I have used and liked but would always have a “what if” moment.

The first is the Sumo Wax by bumble and bumble.

Yes it is a good wax, gives good hold and yes this company offered us a new way of approaching waxes and using them….

BUT

Why the hell is it so thick that I have to take a hair dryer to melt it so I can use it? I really don't want to work this hard to use any product. Is their anyway to make this a little softer? PLEASE!!

Now lets move on to Fructis by Garnier:

For a drugstore product not bad at all. I like the smoothing milk/polish and their wax….

BUT

Who was the queen that they hired to do the smell test on this product? And why does every product smell like burnt apples? Can we just change the scent? And why are all the manufactures of drugstore products designing all of this bright packaging? Like hello!

Okay I'm getting warmed up..

John Frieda Frizz Ease

WE all need a little silicone to help with frizzing.

BUT

Well hello grease ball!!! Have you ever blow dried your hair and see the room full of smoke/steam? Well baby, get ready for the built in fog machine.

Big Sexy Hair

For some reason those three words just don't go together. If it was big sexy man or big sexy mama I would be interested. And that can, child, it’s so old school. I saw a drag queen on Hudson Street soar one at a man like a rocket launcher! You Go Girl!!!

Rosemary Mint shampoo and conditioner by Aveda

Please don't get me started on this one. When I have a new client and I feel that their hair is dry, I will often ask what shampoo and conditioner they use. If they use Aveda, chances are they are using these two products. They smell great but the shampoo is either SO strong or the conditioner is too weak that they tend to dry out most hair types. I personally only like these products for men with an oily scalp or women with virgin healthy hair and an oily scalp.

If you have any thoughts of your own that you would like to share please comment.

I wish you great products!

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

DO YOU 11N ?

2009-01-13T11:04:00.000-08:00

Hello Antonio,

I have just stumbled upon your blog and I am literally fascinated. I live in CT and I have been to many of the salons, Tricomi, Fekkai, Licari, etc when I lived in the city. I am intrigued by a person who, I think, must be so confident about his talents and abilities, that he can post his "secrets online," and is willing to help others. Truly, you must be one in a million. Now, I live in CT and I have had 4 babies in six years. I am too busy with my kids to get to the city anymore and the time to go to the salon, etc. is just an impossibility right now with my hectic schedule. Ten years ago, before I had kids, I used to live in Philadelphia on the main line and I went to a salon which used Goldwell color. The girl there used to use Goldwell 11N on my hair. I loved the color it would be and the soft blond buttery highlights that I had naturally when I was little were back. I have not had such a good experience with highlights since, no matter how fancy the salon I have tried and how much I have paid. I know that my well water is partially to blame for this as well (and I have become a slave to Redken Pre Art treatments).

My mom is one of those people that is just "good at hair," period. Had she not become the fabulous teacher that she is, I think she could have been a tremendous colorist or hair stylists. At any rate, I have now not had my hair highlighted in months, I just cannot get there anymore. She has finally given in and said that if I can get the right product, she will do it for me. I have been on Goldwell's website and I have looked up the fact sheet on the Top Chic color for 11N. My base has only gotten darker after each child and with age, and so I think I need to mix the 11N with the Topchic lotion 12% (40 vol).

ME

Yes you do need to mix it with 40 volume, but as you mentioned your hair has gotten darker which means the 11N will be too warm on your roots. Mixing it with some 11A or 11P will help control the warmth.

LADY

They also talk about the possibility of using a blonding creme mixed in as well. I do not know if my old Philadelphia stylist used this. Can you tell me if this is something you would recommend? I like my highlights to look cool. I do not like any warm toned or brassiness at all.

ME

Well then you may want to stick with the 11P or 11A for sure. Of course it depends on if there is any gray in your roots as well. If there are any gray hairs, then you already have cool in their, its really about formulating.

LADY

"Using Blonding Creme - Blonding Creme increases the degree of lift by a half to one level.
Blonding Creme Ash has an added controlling effect. Both Blonding Creme varieties can be used with the 11-Series and the Topchic (2 –10) shades (up to a maximum of 50 %)."

LADY

Do I need to use a color controller in the V family or in the P family to make certain that it will not be brassy or does the 11 and 12 series have this built in?

ME

As far as I know the ability to control tone is built in but if you want extra lift you can add little of the desired tone of blonding creme to insure lift.

LADY

How can I prevent my ends from getting too solid?

ME

The only way to create dimension and allow the color to grow out naturally without an intense line of demarcation is to low light your hair. Adding highlights to your hair now will blend in the roots a bit but the ends will become too solid. The best low light is 7G Topic sheet with 10 volume and a little water so it then becomes a 5 volume.

LADY

Can you tell me if II should put the 11N on my whole strand of hair, root to end of strand or should I just do the root?

ME

It depends on the color of the ends, your ends may be the totally wrong blond and putting it from roots to ends and adding low lights may be the answer. Then to fuse it all together a glaze or toner (Colorance Demi-Permanent acid shades) would be amazing.

LADY

In the Goldwell Tips section of the 11 series: Tips: • Use to mid lengths and ends after high lifting

What does this mean? And if this is to correct that "solid" look that I have, which demi permanent acid shade would I use?

ME

This is what you will use after doing highlights and/or low lights to fuse it all together as I mentioned before. Remember when you foil the hair what happens to the hair that you can't foil? It may not be a color that you like so adding the Colorance color balance will correct the over all tone.

LADY

*The Goldwell fact sheet also talks about the possibility of using a blonding creme mixed in as well. I do not know if my old Philadelphia stylist used this. Can you tell me if this is something you would recommend? I like my highlights to look more cool, think butter. I do not like any warm toned or brassiness at all.

ME

Oh yes I would absolutely recommend this.

LADY

They also say, “It is not recommended to pull high lift color through pre-lightened hair.”

Does this mean that they only want me to put the 11N on my roots and leave out the hair that is the mid length portion that has old blond color in it?

ME

Exactly, the roots are darker and needs the full time to be processed. The ends are already processed so the product on the ends may have to change to a colorance demi-permanant color, but once again it depends on how light the ends are and you need to decide if not coloring the ends in the highlights is the right choice.

LADY

The tips also say “When high lifting, always treat the darkest parts of the hair first.” Does this mean do the roots first?

ME

Yes it does, but once again it depends on the existing color that is on your ends now.

LADY

Another tip is “When using the high lift series, apply to the hairline for the last 15–20 minutes of processing time.”

What does this mean? I thought the roots took the longest?

ME

This is if you are doing a single process color(roots to ends all over) The hairline is fragile and the heat in the scalp allows for faster lifting on virgin hair.

LADY
The last tip is, “Processing time is 45 minutes (without heat) or 30 minutes (with heat – open air system only).”

Do I set the timer for 45 minutes for my whole head or do I rinse out the first part that I highlighted first?

ME

Yes 45 minutes is recommended. Since this product is not bleach, I generally I rinse it all together. My tip is don't mix all at once. Mix as you go.

LADY

I am so sorry if this is a pain to answer all of these questions. If so, I totally understand.

Thank you so much.

ME

Darling, it is not a pain at all. This is what I am here for. I enjoy helping people and I am honored to be of service. Let me know how you your hair turns out.

I wish you great Hair!

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

I LOVE LONG HAIR!

2009-01-11T17:46:00.000-08:00

Over the past year, I have posted many short hair cuts on my blog and have written many articles on how and why you should go short. While on a recent trip to Miami I was exposed to some beautiful Latina's with gorgeous long locks and I had to face the reality that although I understand short hair I actually love long hair. As a child I would hear my mother say to my sisters, "Don't cut your hair, it is your beauty!" Many years later I will say that there is some truth to what mama said, but could long hair work against you?

YOU KNOW YOUR HAIR IS TOO LONG WHEN:

1) Your hair is always in a ponytail. A ponytail is a style not a sentence.

2) It is annoying your loved ones who have seen you look better and now they think you look too old for your age.

3) You lost your Chihuahua in your hair last week.

4) Your hair is lifeless and feeling sexy is not an option.

5) Your child (if you have one) calls you Rapunzel.

WHY DO SOME HAIRDRESSERS ALWAYS CUT TOO MUCH LENGTH OFF?

Ladies and gentlemen I have seen it all and YES some hair stylists are hair hungry making your hair style all about their ego. It is important as a hair stylist to keep in mind that it’s not important to see hair on the floor in order for a client to feel like they have gotten their money’s worth. A great cut can be done by making subtle changes. It is not always necessary to try to blow the client away with your stylist trying to feed their ego and prove their self worth.

HOW TO AVOID GETTING YOUR LONG HAIR CUT TOO SHORT?

1) Keep insisting to your stylist that you want long hair over and over again (especially if you are a new client and unfamiliar with their work).

2) Don't talk to your stylist when he or she is cutting. Who cares about his or her man troubles and contrary to public opinion your stylist is not a therapist. :)

3) Ask to see what an inch looks like, an inch looks different to us all.

4) When cutting fine long hair I find it helpful to cut my layers first then cut the actual length. From my own mistake, I have realized that I may have given the client the length they requested but as soon as I cut long layers the hair appears to feel lighter on the ends which in return then feels shorter.

As a child I heard my mother saying often to my sisters, “Don't cut your hair, it is your beauty!” Well mama, you were right when talking to teen age girls, but long layers when done correctly can make the biggest difference. And as some woman mature, it is important to make changes to suit her new features and texture change resulting from her natural highlights (gray hair).

I wish you long hair!

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

QUESTION FROM MY READER

2009-01-11T16:07:00.000-08:00

What's the difference between Sebastian Color Shine Cellophane, and their Laminate Cellophane Hair Color?

I found out that it is the same product (maybe minor adjustments) different packaging and a name change. Color Shine by Sebastian is the old packaging and Laminate Cellophane is the new look. It seems like forever since Sebastian had changed the packaging. I remember when I first used cellophane's back in the early eighties and the Sebastian packaging was never altered for a long time. The problem with the new packaging is it is so small. After I apply the new version of this product to four clients with long hair, it is done. As a result, I have to charge more for the treatments so please do not blame me that prices are going up in the middle of a recession. This is the link to the article I wrote on cellophane's.

http://hairbyantonio.blogspot.com/2008/09/all-about-healthy-hair.html

Enjoy!

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

GUEST WRITER: SLK

2009-01-11T15:21:00.000-08:00

Ever since I started quest writing for Antonio’s blog, I have been keeping my eyes open for new health and beauty products to try and report back to you. One could argue I hardly needed another excuse to try new beauty products. Recently, I was attending New York Magazine’s New York Shop event and found two new lines of products I though many readers would like to explore. The first product line is called Basq which is especially formulated for women during and post pregnancy. Now I know what you are thinking, why am I trying a product line for pregnant women? Aside from research for Antonio’s blog, I was very impressed by several of the products offered. The first product which I am now hooked on is their Energizing Body lotion, which is great for relieving sore muscles after workouts. I have been using this body lotion mostly at the gym but it is great for everyday use as well. One application and you can feel your skin tingle with a warming sensation that soothes tired and aching muscles.

I am also a fan of their Citrus Sugar Body Polish. The granules in this body scrub are not as harsh as other body scrubs so I can use it more often.

I found the Basq Rebalancing Face Cleanser gentler than most facial scrubs I have used so I can also use this product more often. I thought the facial scrub and body scrub would be ideal for most women whose skin is more delicate than mine and might not like the harsh granules in many scrubs.

I also purchased the Basq Soothing Spa Socks for my boyfriend. When buying new products, you should always get one for your spouse so they can not complain about the lack of room in your medicine cabinet. Basq also makes Soothing Spa Gloves. The socks and gloves are worn for twenty minutes and provide nourishing moisturizers and antioxidants, leaving your feet and hands hydrated and feeling much softer. To find out more about Basq’s complete line of products or to place an order, visit www.basqnyc.com.

I also tried the Turmeric Antioxidant Facial Mask by Juara. This unique mask is wonderful as it detoxifies, brightens and strengthens the skin. I loved the way it helped to clean out my pores and at the same time diminish fine lines and wrinkles. Once or twice a week after cleaning your face, apply a thin layer of the facial mask and leave it on for fifteen to twenty minutes. Remove the mask in the shower with a wash cloth. The effects are brighter, healthier skin with smaller pores and reduced wrinkles. Juara’s product line combines the ancient tradition of Indonesian beauty rituals with modern science to restore and enhance your skin. Their products are 100 percent vegetarian and free of artificial colorants. To learn more about Juara complete line of products or to place an order, visit www.juaraskincare.com

While there were several other products by Juara I was interest in trying, my boyfriend arrived at the booth and reminded me that we have NO more room in our bathroom for any additional beauty products. I guess the Soothing Spa Socks only go so far.

Enjoy!!

WITH THE MAN IN MIND

2009-01-06T16:24:00.001-08:00

Makeup by Frank Kammerer - getfrank@verizon.net
Photography- www.rileyandrileyphoto.com

HAIR BY ANTONIO

2009-01-06T15:37:00.001-08:00