Monday, July 13, 2009

TIPS ON FINDING THE RIGHT HAIR CUT


Do you ever browse through magazines for a photo to clip out and take to your hair stylist? Well, if you do, here are some tips on how to make sure that you are asking your stylist to do something that is, frankly, in the realm of possibility.

1) Do you have the same hair texture?

Ladies and men, please make sure the texture of the person in the picture is similar to yours. If you are a blond, don't bring in a picture of Erykah Badu and ask for her hair. It ain't happening!

2) Do you have the same face shape?

The shape of the person in the photo could be very different from yours, resulting a real a shocker when you see your new cut.


3) If the hairstylist dislikes the idea of your bringing in a photo, tell him or her to go inhale some bleach! Then find a new stylist.


4) Be sure to confirm how much hair will be cut off.

Shoulder length on a photo and on your own body can be two very different experiences

5) Are you and your stylist seeing the same colors in the photo?

Ask to see a swatch, to be sure you are on the same page.

6) And if you are bringing in photos of celebrities, keep in mind that they probably have hair extensions and live-in hair stylists.

Good luck!!

AFG

Friday, July 10, 2009

THE MOHAWK TREND

Living in NY I find myself amazed by how fast trends come, get chewed up by the every day New Yorkers and then spit out as something totally new. I have been keeping a close eye on men's hair trends for the winter/spring. The short sides and longer tops was a hit on the run ways and on the street. There were so many versions of this style that I found myself walking down Broadway in Soho just to see how the style could be twisted. Then It seemed that for a certain group of young men it was time for the Mohawk to make a come back. No not the 10 inch tall Mohawks of the punk era or the one worn by today's Goth followers, but a refined version that has embraced my many ethnic backgrounds. What I find really interesting is the men who are now sporting the Mohawk are not the type that would normally wear a Mohawk.

Here are a few shots I took people I saw on the streets.






And here are 2 versions of the HAWK that I did to share with my readers.






Enjoy and I wish you to be inspired.

AFG

HOME MADE HAIR TREATMENT


Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved
Photography- www.rileyandrileyphoto.com




Making your own hair treatment.

This is a very interesting topic. I never realized that so many people are open to the idea of making their own hair remedies from scratch. After working with so many hair products over the years, I took it for granted and depended on product manufactures to guide me and provide me with hair care tools. Now it is time for me to get in on the action of HHCR (home hair care remedies).

Ready?

I have researched many ingredients, mixing oils, fruits and even some ingredients from my native land (mosquitoes). I also tried a few home-made recipes that are being advertised. Some were good, some even great but many were just a plain old bad idea. Consequently, you should be careful before you use any remedy on your hair. This was the one that worked the best. I know because I tried it on my self and other friends. In case you were wondering, it was not tested on any animals.


FOR VIRGIN HAIR (for color treated hair remove Lemon)

The Ingredients-

VERY RIPE AVOCADO; Apart from making a mean Guacamole its has been known for its moisturizing oils.

VIRGIN OLIVE OIL: Is used all over the world in many home hair care recipes for soothing the cuticle.

ORGANIC EGG WHITE: Great source of protein

FRESH MINT: Great in preventing static on conditioned hair.

FRESH LEMON; A natural hair brightener

First whisk one egg white, half an ounce of lemon juice and half an ounce olive oil in a bowl. Then crush five mint leaves and an Avocado. Combine all ingredients and whisk for five minutes. I recommend shampooing with Green Tea Clarifying Shampoo by Aubrey Organics. Start by applying your treatment to clean partially towel dried hair, or as an intense treatment you can use the treatment on clean dry hair. Leave in your hair for five minutes and then rinse well. If you have stressed thirsty hair leave in for ten minutes and then rinse well. After rinsing, use the same
shampoo, but a lot less this time. Don't worry about the shampoo stripping the treatment. This treatment is so rich you will need to shampoo afterwards, trust me. When you are done, you would be amazed at how your hair will feel and the softness and shine will last for days!!


Look forward to more HHCR by hairbyantonio
Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

BEST HAIR DRYER


http://www.misikko.com/fhi-1900-turbo-dryer-black.html

As you already know there is no advertising on my blog, which means I am allowed to be honest when I love or hate a product. I wanted to share with you a find like no other. It’s a find that I am happy to share because it will change your hair for sure! It’s an FHI Heat Nano Weight Pro 1900 Turbo Hair Dryer. Let’s cut to the chase. Here are the reasons I love it:

1) It’s the lightest dryer I have ever used. Most dryers can be a little heavy but this is like a feather.

2) It seems to dry the hair in half the time, no kidding. I am using it on my clients with thick hair and it’s a miracle!!

3) The shine on the hair is unbelievable. I know it's an Ionic dryer but I'm not going to get into all that drama. What’s important is that I used it and it works!

4) It is so silent, you have no idea. I can have a conversation without screaming at the client over some of those boat engine dryers.

5) The nozzle turns easily. Now that is a big deal. I am tired of trying to turn those piping hot nozzles and getting burnt.

I feel that most hair dryers should follow the example of this particular dryer and I'm happy that I found it. To get one I recommend going to misikko.com. I have ordered products from them in the past and the service is very fast and efficient.

Thanks Misikko!!!

AFG

NEW PRODUCT RECOMMENDATION


Well, well... Bumble and bumble you did it again, you brought us a product that surpasses expectations. The Gellac is one of the most fun, creative products that Ive use since the Xtah line by Sebastian. I used the Gellac on myself to see what the big deal was. I read so many blogs that talked about the product but no one talked about using it on them selves. Well hello how can you recommend a product if you don't use it? Well that's what comesse is about, bringing you the truth.

I have been wearing my hair longer and it got warmer I decided to start using a gel and slicking my hair back. My hair texture is fine and curly, wavy on top and tight curls on the side (from my Ethiopian heritage). As it got longer I wanted something stronger, real strong! And my prayers were answered. I towel dried my hair as usual and applied a quarter size amount of Mizz Gellac. I quickly realised that I was able to play with my hair and sculpt a shape that was difficult to do with regular gel. The hold is amazing, the shine like glass and the best part is when it dries it can be brushed out. And guess what, when I brushed out my dried slicked back hair it was gorgeous!! If I may say so myself :)


I wish you fierce hair!!

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

TIPS TO TELL YOUR BARBER


I was in my neighborhood walking down the street and I noticed a barber shop. Curiosity got the best of me and I stood outside the shop window looking like a crazy person. As I looked at the barber doing his thing it got me thinking, I wish I could run in there and direct the barber on how to keep the hair cut looking modern, taking away the tell tail signs of a cut that looks like it belongs on a boy.

Here are some guidelines on how to ask your Barber to keep your hair cut looking modern.

1) If your hair is always cut with clippers keep in mind that although it is fast it also leaves a harsh look to your cut.

Ask your barber to use scissors for the next cut, yes it will take longer but chances are you would be very happy with the outcome. This is providing that your barber can use the scissors for an entire cut? This skill separates the boys from the men.

2) Beware of the trimmer

When getting around the ear trimmed ask them to use a scissors not the trimmer. The trimmer can make you look like a Ken doll, there is no need for you to have the hair around the ear carved. It's not a turkey on Thanksgiving!!

3) Do not go way beyond the natural hair line.

Always request that they do not go past the natural hair line. This way you don't look like you were just giving an extra 2 inches of neck.

4) Thinning shears

This tool should be used mainly for the final clean up or blending of your cut. Sometimes it could actually do more good than bad. If you feel that your hair is getting limp or hard to style it could be that your hair needs to recover and needs some thickness to get the best out of your hair.

5) Use one barber

Guys I know at times it’s all about convenience but if you stay with one barber you can actually work towards a goal in terms of your desired look. If someone different cuts your hair every time, it may be difficult to explain what you want. All hair cutters see hair differently.

6) Quick cut

If your cut takes 10 minutes, guess what? All your co-workers know it because you don't look polished.

7) Products

This is an important part of maintaining a good hair cut. If your barber does not sell hair products, it’s a problem. You can get away from cutting too soon if you use good products.

8) Marine cut

If you are in your forties and sell Real Estate please don't try to look like a marine

9) Hygiene

Do you know that fluffy gadget they use to dust the hair off from around the neck and face? Well it’s a fact that, in many states, they are illegal and are impossible to disinfect. So in other words you are sharing perspiration with hundreds of other men.

Most importantly guys when people describe you to others please don't let them have to say, “You know Ken, yeah, he's the one with the really bad hair!” (It happens)

Monday, June 15, 2009

HOW TO KEEP YOUR GRAY HAIR SILVER AND SHINY WITHOUT HAIR COLOR.

Ladies and gentlemen you know who you are. You, who can wear a full head of silver locks and turn heads in a room like gang busters! The fabulous few who have the perfect color (not purple) know that you not only need the right haircut, skin tone and attitude, you also need the right products. I am here to share with the rest of the world some of your favorite products and why they should be used.

Things that make your silver locks sad :(

Medication can deposit in the hair giving it a yellow cast


Smokers this can also deposit that cast of nicotine on your beautiful hair


If you're not grey enough (salt & pepper) your remaining dark hair can sometimes turn a little flat, mousy or just dull baby!


Too much hair spray and styling products can build up leaving behind a dulling affect, no good.



Things that can make your silver locks glad. :)

Use a clarifying shampoo once a week to help remove build up of products etc. My recommendations are;

L`Occitane - Lavender Harvest Clarifying Shampoo (2.5 oz.)

Paul Mitchell Clarifying Shampoo Three Removes Chlorine and Impurities
Use color shampoos and conditioners that will brighten your gray hair disguising that dulling affect. Some companies only make shampoos and some do color conditioners as well. Here are some of my favorites. For more pigment deposit leave shampoo or conditioner in for a few
minutes.

Bumble and Bumble Color Support Extra Mild Shampoo for Cool Brunettes 8.0 oz
Using Vinegar can help with removing residue. Make sure you are diluting the vinegar. Every article online has a different ratio but aim for about 1 tablespoon vinegar per 1 cup of water. Also you don't need to use it every time you shampoo. Twice a week is a lot.

Did someone Fancyful? This is old school but as we know we learn from the past masters. The first hair dresser I worked with still uses this product and swears by it. Trust him, look where it got me!! Apply a few drops throughout your hair. Work through and dry.

I wish you great hair one strand at a time!

Comesse

Monday, June 8, 2009

HOW TO PREP OVER PROCESSED HAIR FOR COLOR


Kerastase Resistance Forcintense (5 - 15ml ampoules)



Today I had a consultation with a client whom had a color mishap
at another salon. As we were talking, I focused on what she
wanted and offered my help as best as I could. Her hair was over
lightened and she looked like a single process blond, she was not
happy because she lost all of her low lights. We discussed our master
plan to repair her hair color by primarily using low lights in two
different colors. Then she asked an important question. Is my hair
strong enough to handle more chemical? So I explained to her that the
color has no ammonia and a little peroxide, so it does have some
chemical. I also explained there is an important step we will take
to getting her hair ready for the color process and that's by using
Forcintense by Kerastase.

This product is an amazing treatment that I have my clients take home
to use prior to coloring their hair. It almost prolongs the
strength of the hair and provides vitality to the most weakened hair
in 5 applications. Forcintense allows your hair to withstand any trace of
chemical however small it is in your future hair coloring. Hair is
such a delicate thing that it’s important to treat it well. A little
love goes a long way. This product is a truly progressive
reconstruction program. I have seen it increase durability and a
beautiful shine in my client’s hair. I highly recommend this product
and wish you healthy hair and beautiful hair color.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

ARE YOU A BALIAGE OR FOIL WOMAN

I hear this question all the time and it’s a great conversation to have because there is a bit of a controversy as to what is true or false. So what really is the difference? To help describe I have provided two models and colored their hair so you can get an idea of what each looks like. Hair color is a personal treatment that takes research an eye to see what the client sees and an ear to pick up on any details that may help you both get to the color you want.

THE BALIAGE WOMAN

HAIR BY ANTONIO
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Justin-Julius Santos. www.jjsantos.com
MODEL- MIRANDA PIERSON
AGENCY- MAJOR


This woman maybe a brunette who wants high lights for the first time. The gentlest way to approach this is Baliage. It's as if the hair got excited and there was a small explosion of color from the inside out :) One can even say sun kissed. Beware though, some stylists idea of sun kissed is sitting in the middle of the Sahara dessert for weeks! For the blond that does not mind a little depth in the root area, this is also the perfect option. Did you know that you can foil and Baliage at the same time? Honey, stick with me and i’ll take you places! Also it’s a quick pick me up for the natural looking blond. Remember when you first started highlighting and there was always dimension to your color? Well you can count on Baliage to give you the blond with beautiful, fresh tones. Its perfect for short hair. The end result is unbelievable!

THE DISADVANTAGES OF BILAGE

Because its painted some times the hairstylist can not put enough product on the hair and the bleach dries out leaving brassy tones behind. Or the stylist knowing that the bleach may dry because of their lack of proper application may apply high heat. High heat and bleach is like an explosion of the cuticle. Have you seen bangs on a woman that are actually breakage? The stylist may look for short cuts and do chunks that are too big. This end result is very unnatural and that defeats the purpose of a natural looking blond.


THE FOIL WOMAN

HAIR BY ANTONIO
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Justin-Julius Santos. www.jjsantos.com
MODEL- Sarah Anne Stewart
AGENCY- Mc2

This technique is dated but still a must. Putting foils in a skilled hand can create a flawless blond without looking like Auntie Jean in the supermarket with stripes galore. It’s all about the approach. You can use one to five colors in the client’s hair but nothing works if there is no skill or love for them foils. Love the foils child!! Seriously now. The important thing when foiling is understanding the desired effect be it fine or heavy pieces. The age of the client and their natural hair color are so important to keep in mind. The foil woman likes great coverage. She's not the lover of lots of depth in the roots underneath her blond. For example, it is not a good sign when you are looking at a blond from behind the head and you can see depth where the hair paths. With foils, the coverage can be flawless in that area. Also, when it comes to color correcting where highlights are concerned, foils are the best way to go. Baliage in this case is very time consuming and in the wrong hands can get messy or brassy.

Need I remind you that this my opinion? Another plus with foils is it’s a very effective way to apply low lights on a woman who is blond but wants to be richer and darker. Baliage in this case can work but the low light is better protected in the foil and, with the heat from the scalp, it helps with better staining. Hair color is not as thick as bleach so when painting the hair it’s a little drippy. Although you can Baliage low lights.

THE DISADVANTAGE TO FOILING

When we take a section of hair to add color we can only add one color per foil. But with baliage we can alternate colors in one section, which gives the feeling of a gradual pattern of color.


In a nut shell, foiling is an important part of the coloring process and I feel happy to be able to offer my clients the two. I hope this helped you decide what’s right for you.

I wish you to be a happy blond!

Friday, May 22, 2009

CHRIS CARRABBA



I am lucky to be living in NYC the Mecca of trends for both hair and fashion. Needless to say, my eyes and ears are always open to new twists and flavors that can influence the way I look at hair. I am also lucky to have a great relationship with clients in every industry; as we serve as an inspiration to one another. One of my on-going sources for men's hair inspiration is Chris Carrabba of the Dashboard Confessionals. Every time he sits in my chair it's a great collaboration of ideas for cuts. As he tours the world, he brings to my chair fresh ideas. We play with them; adding the final personal touch to make it his own style. A couple years ago I worked with Chris on his Madison Square Garden concert which was amazing. I look forward to bringing you more images soon from our work together.

AFG

Sunday, May 17, 2009

IS THE RAZOR BAD FOR CURLY COLOR TREATED HAIR?

Well we have all met some one who has had a bad experience with a razor cut. Why is that? Is it because the razor is really that bad for the hair? Or is it because the person behind the tool needs proper training? I guess anyone can do damage even with a butter knife if they use it incorrectly.

From my personal experience, I went from being afraid of the razor to using a feather razor with a guard to a razor without a safety guard. And the journey has been quiet a learning experience especially after being told that it damages the hair. Over the years, I've been taught and mastered the art of razor cutting and want to share with you a few words and images of why and how I razor a client's hair.

My model has curly, color treated hair. Because she prefers to be a brunette with subtle high lights, I decided to place some images with an article to give my readers the full experience of a simple brunette color formula and a razor cut on thick hair with a medium curl.


My model has been a friend as well as a client for seven years from when I first moved to NYC. She has witnessed my growth first hand and we have so much fun when we get together. Our desired look is long layers with removing bulk in the hair. It must be easy to manage especially since the hot summer months are ahead. We also want her to be able to wear her hair curly or straight.

THE COLOR

My model is a natural level 4 (dark brown). I decided to place a few foils at the front of her hair and color everything else at the same time, allowing the highlights and the base color to process at the same time. I choose to use color wear by Alfaparf. It's an amazing product with great shine leaving the hair always feeling and looking so healthy. I first placed Alfaparf bleach in about 5 foils weaving a little thicker than normal. I mixed 1/2 7/3, 1/4 7/0 and 1/4 7/32 with double the amount of peroxide and applied it to the rest of the hair leaving it all on for 25 minutes. At the end of the processing time I applied heat for 5 minutes. After processing I rinsed and did a 7 minute glaze with 1/4 of 7/32 and 3/4 of 10/32 to add an even tone to the highlight.

I followed with a clear Color Wear for an amazing shine.

THE CUT
We decided to save the length on her hair cut and focus on layering and removing unwanted thickness. Starting at the back of the head I gently razored the bulk in the one area where she would miss it the least. This is important because when we look at a woman from the profile sometimes the silhouette is never following the shape of the head, which when done correctly is very feminine.

When using the razor there maybe a part of the section of the hair that I'm holding that may appear to be thinner, so I avoid cutting it. I only thin what needs thinning




As I cut the fringe I pay particular attention to creating softness without over layering the hair line. This area can be finer in texture so my focus is cutting length. Then I will carefully remove bulk where needed. Sometimes I will do the entire hair cut by scissors and do the hair line by razor.



As I go towards layering her hair I keep in mind that I want to stay away from a shape that's triangular which is normally what happens to thick hair just past the shoulder length. Using the razor at this angle allows me to focus on the heavy corners without removing length and without cutting layers at the top too short. Remember; to create height the answer is not to create super short layers on top, it's about giving a well balanced hair cut.


Because I used the razor, I decided not to dry cut her hair after. Sometimes I feel you can over cut the hair so I try to refrain from taking too muck bulk from the hair. Less is more in this case. For styling product, I decided to keep it affordable. I used Kiss My Face Hair Gel and Liquid Mousse. They work well with out being too heavy and smell great. The shine is good and did I mention affordable?
.
Kiss My Face Kmf Upper Managemt Styling Gel 8 oz

Kiss My Face Kmf Hold Up Styling Mousse 8.5 oz

Now here is our finished look. A very simple cut and color that will grow well.




ALL IMAGES BY RILEYANDRILEYPHOTO.COM

Thursday, May 14, 2009

A MUST FROM YOUR HAIR STYLIST

WHEN A HAIR STYLIST USES A BRUSH FULL OF HAIR FROM THE LAST CLIENT ON YOU? ITS LIKE YOU USING A STRANGERS TOOTH BRUSH. YOU DESERVE BETTER, REQUEST ONLY CLEAN BRUSHES!!

Sunday, May 10, 2009

THINGS YOU DESERVE FROM YOUR HAIR STYLIST



1) A consultation before your service - This an important time to connect with your stylist and discuss what changes can be made to your existing style or problems you may have had with the previous cut or color. When your hair is wet it’s a little too late.

2) Clean brushes and combs – Yes, it is possible to get this from your stylist. I do it! The worst thing is to see a hair stylist pick up a brush with hair from 17 other people and their dog. I think this is worst than using someone else's tooth brush :)

3) Clean environment - Hell yes!! Stylists get your act together. Get to work early and make sure your salon is to your liking. No one wants to sit in a chair that is covered in hair clippings from previous clients.

4) Great magazines - Buy proper magazines that can inspire and motivate. We can read about which celebrity was found with a crack pipe another time.

5) The latest techniques - There is a world of knowledge out there that can make the biggest difference in your hair. So ladies if you see your hairstylist constantly picking up the thinning shears you know there is a problem.

6) Options for change with every visit - This keeps it fresh and separate the stylists that are bored with their jobs from those who really care about you image

THINGS YOU DO NOT DESERVE

1) Bad breath - Like hello can someone say Altoids!! (smokers beware)

2) Dirty tools - This is enough for you to get up and leave the salon. I would!

3) Hot pants - Child, I’ve seen them in the salon and it is not cute!!

4) Blowing on your neck - Men if you see a hairstylist blowing your neck to remove bits of hair, bitch slap them.

5) Trying to sell products you don't need - I always say to my clients "this is what I use or recommend for your hair type but ultimately it’s up to you to decide."

I

Friday, May 8, 2009

GOING FROM GOLDWELL 4NN TO A LIGHTER COLOR

READER

Hi Antonio,
I love all of your blogs. When planning my next trip to NY, I would love an appointment. For now, my hair is dark brown and the gray is coming in fast. I am having to touch up every 3 to 4 weeks. My natural color is between a 4 and 5. Recently for lack of trying I have been covering gray with 4NN. For summer, I would love a beautiful chocolate formula that has depth to it. I recognize without seeing my natural color, this is not the perfect situation, but imagine 4NN all over and you've got it. Again, thank you. I know you are terribly busy so any help is SOOOOO appreciated!!!




ANTONIO

Thank you for visiting the blog and for your compliments! It’s my pleasure :) I too think that you should be a Chocolate brown for the summer and here's are three ways to get you there.

YOUR NEXT VISIT

4NN is dark child!!

So let’s move you gradually to a lighter color like 5NN and 20 volume peroxide.

You will still get the gray coverage because of the NN (more pigment) and you will be one shade lighter. I know this does not sound like a lot lighter but this is a subtle approach.

Their are several ways to approach this situation. The first is allowing the hair to fade and continue having root touch ups and no color on the ends, this will allow you to have the lighter color you are dreaming of in the healthiest way. It may take a little longer though.
TIP FOR YOUR STYLIST


The next time you have your color done, have them apply the color on the roots and always leave the hairline for last. The color that is mixed for the hairline will be a little lighter than the color of the rest of the root area. The hair on the hairline is fine and grabs color faster than the rest of the hair, that's why we see some brunettes with a beautiful hair color but the hair line is sometimes super dark. So make the request, you would be so happy with the change.


THE APPLICATION

Now listen carefully! When we say the root I mean the new growth and nothing else. The slightest over lapping of the color on the previously colored hair is a recipe for a disaster. You will be surprised how much of a difference it makes to have your color applied properly. So if you're using 5NN for the root area apply then mix 1/2 5NN and a 1/2 6NN for the hairline with 20 volume. Allow to process for the full time.

THE WASH

Just before washing the color off have the stylist apply handfuls of conditioner to the dry ends of your hair. This will protect the ends of your hair when rinsing by not making it too dark from the root color. No matter how fast they think they can rinse the color it is never fast enough to avoid the ends getting too dark. Then continue the same process till you can see the ends fading enough.

OR

Have the root color done with the same formula as above. While this is processing paint highlights thought your hair to help counteract the darkness on the ends with lightener and 20 volume. We don't want it too light just about 2 shades lighter. Again put conditioner on the ends even over the highlights , wash and towel dry well. To glaze the ends I would use a level 6.0 or 6N demi-permanent color to bring it all together. Most demi-permanent color always grab a little richer (darker) so the level
is safe.

OR

I would color the roots with 5NN then apply conditioner on the ends before rinsing. Follow by a clear demi;permanent color. There are many demi-permanent color lines. Depending on what demi-permanent color line they use, I would use a clear with 20 volume under heat for 15 minutes. This will allow the dark ends to release some of the color. Some of my clear demi-permanent favorites are Clear by Dia Color Loreal,

0 by color wear

and 0,00 by Color Touch.

After rinsing, towel dry and get ready for the final step. Follow by using a level 6 demi-permanent color from roots to ends for 15 minutes. The reason you will use the level 6.0 as the final step is because when you use the clear with heat It may lift a little warm(red), using the 6.0 brings it all together nicely.

I hope this was helpful, please feel free to print it and take it to your hair dresser. He or she will understand it really well.

I wish you great hair,

Antonio

Monday, May 4, 2009

READER FROM MALAYSIA

I came across your blog online, and since then I've been hooked! I really like your advice and the pictures you put up, and I love the fact that you take your time and patience to explain stuff that the rest of us don't really understand (like baliage- did I spell that right?)

Anyway, here in Malaysia, I've never come across a hairstylist that knows their stuff as well as you do (the one stylist who did a decent job cutting my hair moved away and I haven't been able to find her since...) and if it's alright with you, I'd like to ask your advice. Back when I was young my school never let us have long hair- it had to be at most just touching our collars or the discipline teacher would come at us with a pair of kitchen scissors... you don't want to see what some of us went home with, trust me. So when I left the school, I started growing my hair and have had long hair for years now. I'm getting pretty sick of the romantic long-haired look so I've been thinking of going short, something edgier.

Trouble is, my face is kind of square shaped, with a wide jaw. I'd love a pixie cut but I'm afraid it'd make my face look even wider. And since my hair is a little wavy and very frizzy I'm worried it'll pouf up if I get a bob. I'm of Chinese descent, so I have naturally black hair, but I wouldn't mind dyeing it. (My hair in the second picture is dyed dark brown.) And I'm really low-maintenance so 10 minutes is the most I'd spend on my hair everyday (I oversleep most of the time and end up having to rush off to class). I'm really sorry to be so troublesome, but it'd be great if you could suggest a short style I could get... I'm so clueless at the moment. Thank you so much for your time! I would really appreciate your help, but if you don't have the time, I completely understand. I look forward to seeing more updates on your blog! =)
Lots of love,


ANTONIO

I am honored that you would write to me for advice. I will do my best to help you find the right look for you. Child you are beautiful!! Looking at the images that you sent I was able to see your different hair styles, color and the shape of your face. You were right your face shape will be considered to be on the square side. But let’s talk about your face a bit. Most women will kill to have your jaw line, and your eyes are to die for and of course that skin!! In other words we have an amazing palette to work with and it’s a matter of finding a shape style and color to suit your needs. That's my job and I'm happy to share all. On another note, what’s also cool is we are in different parts of the world and are connected by beauty. I'm actually sitting on my roof top watching the Hudson River and writing to you, so cool!!

Enough about me.

I would recommend the approach to be not about the length but about the shape and mood your stylist creates. It’s about not looking at hair long or short but as an accessory that compliments you. I would suggest you start by searching through past eras for inspiration to put together a mood. With that in mind remember we can’t change the shape of your face but we can change the shape of your hair.

POTENTIAL CUTS
The short cut may be a challenge not because of the shape of your face but because of the texture of your hair and you did mention not wanting to spend too much time styling.

HAIR BY ANTONIO


Long full bangs are also an option but it may make your jaw-line appear to be heavier than it really is, depending on how the bangs are cut.

HAIR BY ANTONIO


ANTONIO'S RECOMMENDATION ,


STEP 1)
I would first discuss the desired lengths which will be great about one and a half inches pass the collar. He or she should use scissors keeping a straight edge as opposed to a razor, leaving the ends textured. Then I would create a very shuttle A-line so that there is the option for movement because of it being shorter in the back and longer in front. Then this also gives a different shape from the profile. Also at this length it’s long enough to not look like an A-line Bob, but it is short enough to give a modern feel and will be very different from your current look in your photos.

STEP 2)
I would then move to the face framing before I cut layers. This is where the "mood" of the cut is created. Looking at the photos you sent me, I would start cutting angles around the face with a very delicate approach. Placing them against the cheek bones. Each layer that I cut framing the cheek bones will be longer than the one before. Doing this creates shorter pieces below the longer pieces which than creates movement and softness. When working with the hair around your jaw-line it’s important to know that your jaw-line is stronger and needs softening as well.

Step 3)
The over all layers could be shorter than usual. IMPORTANT- It’s important to gently remove bulk from this area as well but I would avoid thinning shears!! Removing the right amount of bulk with a razor you can have more movement without depending on too many layers. When cutting your hair I would pay attention to the layers above the ear. These should be short but not too short to avoid it looking too round.

Take these guide lines to your stylist and he or she should be able to use them to create a look for you that is modern and sexy with movement.

I wish you great hair,

Antonio

Sunday, May 3, 2009

MY FRIEND, MY CLIENT AND MY HAIR CUT; CHRIS CARRABBA

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

HAVE YOU BEEN TOUCHED BY COLOR TOUCH?


Hi Antonio-

I just read your post on Wella Color Touch and found it very informative. The reason I am writing is because I am trying to figure out what color method is best for my hair, but I've been getting some contradictory expert opinions.

I am Irish-American and my hair is naturally curly, thick and -- although it pains me to say it -- very coarse. I do my best to take good care of it -- Kenra Platinum shampoo, lukewarm water, deep
conditioning treatments, blah, blah, blah -- but it never seems to get any better. My color plan has been what you suggested to your reader: Koleston Perfect on the roots, Color Touch on the ends (I'm 38 and my hair on the crown is about 50% gray, although it's considerably less elsewhere). I was recently complaining about my hair texture to a friend who has somewhat similar hair, and she said her stylist uses only demi-permanent color on her because he said permanent color/developer should never be used on coarse, curly hair. I asked my stylist about this when I phoned to make an appointment, and she said he was wrong.

My hair is a level five red brown, and I color it to a level six red. It holds color for about 4 weeks before it starts fading rapidly, even though I only wash it twice a week.

I realize you can't possibly have time to give free advice to everyone who writes, but if you have a chance to offer your two cents, I would be very grateful.

Thank you,


ANTONIO

You have no idea how much I appreciate you writing. It is so interesting how different stylists can have very different opinions when dealing with hair challenges. I can relate because it’s the same in my salon. So let’s break down this baby for you.

I won't disagree with either person. What I will share is my opinion on a couple of IMPORTANT things that maybe at fault which you should be aware of.

1) Be certain that your hair is very clean prior to going in to get your hair colored. At this point we want to take all precautions we can for allowing your color to cover and hold.

2) Color Touch comes with two different developers, 1.9% and a 4%. The 1.9% is used when you want more deposit. I'm not sure what your stylist is using for a developer but this may help in allowing for more deposit of the red pigment.

Hair by Antonio Gonzales

3) When your color is finished processing in the salon and you are being rinsed, the color should not be shampooed by regular shampoo. Since you are using Wella, I would suggest rinsing well then using Performance plus by Wella for 3-5 minutes. This product is a miracle that stabilizes the cuticle and seals your Wella color. I'm sure your stylist uses it. You will know as it has a fresh Pine smell and no it’s not Pine Sol! Ask them to see the bottle so you know that it’s Performance Plus. It comes in a tall gray bottle with a wide mouth.

4) From personal experience when the Color Touch is on the ends after 10 minutes it can look very dark. Usually in a panic we rinse the color out of the hair. I have realized with my Redheads that sometimes leaving it in longer and allowing it to be a little richer than my desired color is the answer. We know red fades anyway so why not make it a little darker and allow the elements (water, sun) to lighten it for us.

5) A formula adjustment may be in order. Your stylist may want to call the Wella hot line for assistance in formulating. It may take an ounce of some Red pigment to make the color last. This is the beauty in hair color. There is a world of options to get the job done and sometimes it takes asking for help.

Here is an article I wrote for about .com that will help you in preventing your red to look dead.

http://beauty.about.com/od/haircol2/a/redhairtips.htm


I wish you fierce red hair!!

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

MAKING THE RIGHT INVESTMENT IN STYLING TOOLS CAN CHANGE YOUR LIFE.


I wanted to begin by addressing the one topic that would make the biggest impact in someone's life. After much research with my existing clientele, I decided to focus on what it means to have really useful styling tools and how you can make the right investments without cluttering your cupboard with a ton of unnecessary plastic and metal. I'm here to encourage you to start fresh: take a deep breath, get a loved one to join you on this and dive in to that closet of "hair stuff". Give the things you never use to a loved one or have it recycled. Girl, free up that valuable real estate! Now it's time to decide what stays and what you need to add.

A couple of basic tips for all hair types:

1) Make sure you have a nozzle on your blow dryer.

2) Avoid styling your hair in the bathroom after showering because of the humidity.

3) When choosing round brushes and rollers, remember that the bigger the brush or roller means the less curl you'll end up with. The smaller the brush or roller the more curl you will get.

After this it comes down to specific hair types.

FINE STRAIGHT HAIR

When I do radio shows, the number one concern from my callers is how to add lift to fine straight hair. Yes, we all know that with the right cut, volumizing products or even hair color can give you a little extra volume. But what about a few hot rollers or a little curling iron action? You would be amazed at the difference these two tools can make.

Here are some techniques on how to create longer-lasting lift in your hair. If you look at most magazines you'll see that 80's big hair is out unless it's intentional. So, for a modern appearance with volume, remember the idea is to create lift on the top of the head but not necessarily over the ear. Remember Linda Evans? Who could forget those wings!

After using a volumizing product lean your head forward and pre-dry the root area a little. Then when completed start drying your hair with a round brush, always work with the hair in sections. For lasting volume, I love using Babyliss Pro ceramic hot rollers or the Hot Tools Pro Spring curling irons. Hot rollers are surely not as hot as curling irons so depending on the quality of your hair you should decide which tool is appropriate. Think about the desired look you want to achieve. You generally want to have most of your volume on top. To avoid that springy feel over the ear you may want to refrain from too small rollers over the ear or nape.

Dry a section at a time and place the rollers as you go. While working with sections, be sure to add a softer hair spray to the section before wrapping it around the rollers. If you have extra fine hair you'll want to use less spray. Leave the rollers in for about ten minutes to allow for a good set. Remember you can do this quickly. It does not have to be an all-morning escapade. If you are pressed for time or want a not-too-bouncy feel around the face, use a brush over the ear instead to give a softer feeling with more lift on top from the rollers.

Tip: For a little texture or wave in your hair , towel-dry your hair well then braid it with some Paul Brown Hawaii Hapuna Styling Foam and sleep with it braided. When you wake up, gently un-braid your hair.


ENHANCING CURLY HAIR (FINE OR THICK)

The idea is to work with an already curled head of hair adding more definition and sex appeal to your curl. Air dry or diffuse your hair with appropriate curling product. From my experience, a curl cream combined with an alcohol base product makes for a great curl. And remember; always use a tiny bit of heat protection prior to using any iron. After your hair is dried take sections and re-curl with the iron. This will seal the cuticle of the hair giving shine, definition and allowing the hair to repel moisture and avoid frizzing. And if you see steam coming off of your hair from the heat, don't panic, it's a
good thing. It means the hair is being protected by product from the heat. A great trick is instead of opening the clamp of the iron to curl your hair, try actually wrapping the hair around the barrel of the iron while it's closed. Try it -- you'll love it!

Tip: When diffusing, try not to continuously scrunch your hair, this can help create frizziness or unnecessary lift.

WANT STRAIGHT HAIR THAT CAN LAST A WEEK?

Easy! Apply your favorite smoothing lotion, polishing milk, smoothing balm or straightening silicone. (there are so many names these days!) When blow drying your hair, focus on getting the hair smooth and the ends polished. Remember that you will be using a flatiron to further straighten the hair so don't over-dry the hair. After blow drying apply a little serum to your hair avoiding the root area. IMPORTANT! Section your hair into four sections (ear-to-ear and from the center of the forehead to the back of the head). To iron the back right section, turn your head to the left and work with the lower back sections moving up to the crown of the head. Always work with small sections. Do the same with the left side. Then move to the front sections keeping in mind that you can section off the bangs, leaving them for last.

GREAT TIP

As you flat iron the hair at the top of the head, take sections and wrap them in Velcro rollers. This gives you the look of a great polished head of hair with lift at the top of the head, and every woman looks great with a little body on the top, whether it's curly of
straight.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

DO WANT REALLY STRAIGHT HAIR?


HAIR BY ANTONIO GONZALES
While every girl or guy dreams of achieving their favorite celebrity's hairstyle, we know that most celebrities are blessed with frequent visits from their hairstylists, as well as the luxury and time to play with extensions and wigs. So what can the rest of us do? Here are some techniques that you would enjoy. Darling, we all want sexy hair at any age, don't we?

1) STRAIGHT HAIR

If you follow my advice, you can achieve straight, flawless and shiny hair. Start by being generous with the right product. Follow by blow-drying very thin sections. The number one mistake is doing a quick blow dry with big sections and hoping that the flat iron will do all the work.

With that approach, what ends up happening is that the hair will always have a little swollen appearance, and the ends will never be perfect. I know that's a lot, but to achieve that perfect straight hair you said that you would try, so stop whining :).

Now apply a heat protection product and section your hair. Start working with half-inch thin sections.

As we know, we're not supposed to leave the flat iron on the hair for too long. This is where I'll have to momentarily step out of my "healthy hairdressers box" and suggest that you slowly run the iron along the hair shaft. Did I say slowly? Count to 20. Now remember, if you do as directed, it's going to look great, depending on how healthy your hair is - the healthier the hair, the better the result.

I wish you straight hair!

Afg

WHAT'S NEW IN NYC




My Friend and client, Chris Miles, just started his company Jupiter's. This is NYC's first and only motorcycle rental, offering rentals of the latest BMWs and Harley's. Jupiter's mission is to provide an affordable, accessible and easy alternative to owning a motorcycle in NYC. If you are interested in learning more about Chris and his business visit jupitersnyc.com or contact him directly at chris@jupitersnyc.com.


Jupiter's Motorcycle Rental
718 788-2585
Skype: Jupiter's Motorcycle Rental

Thanks Chris!!